5 days in Dublin and Ireland's Ancient East

History is always by your side in Dublin – from the city’s Viking roots to its grand 18th-century architecture. At the Book of Kells Experience in Trinity College, journey back to the 9th century and see one of Ireland’s greatest cultural treasures. The exhibition explores the renowned illuminated manuscript and includes a visit to the Long Room, one of the world’s most impressive libraries.

Outside, Trinity’s captivating cobblestoned campus awaits, with its leafy squares, grand architecture and iconic 19th-century campanile. Take a Trinity Trails guided walking tour, and you’ll hear stories about past alumni, including Dracula author Bram Stoker and wit extraordinaire Oscar Wilde, while discovering architectural gems, such as the Museum Building.

A short walk from Trinity are two of Dublin’s top attractions: the National Gallery of Ireland, featuring work by Irish and international artists, and the National Museum of Ireland, Kildare Street, where you’ll find an astonishing collection of prehistoric goldwork. Want to delve into Dublin’s contemporary creative energy? Try a Street Art Walking Tour by Alternative Dublin or spend the afternoon crafting your own Claddagh ring at Dublin Silver Works.

Dublin est un véritable foyer de créativité culinaire, et il n’y a jamais eu de meilleur moment pour découvrir sa scène culinaire. Des salons de thé traditionnels aux coffee shops de troisième vague, en passant par des restaurants d'avant-garde revisitant avec audace les classiques irlandais, la ville conserve une identité culinaire résolument singulière. Nulle part cette énergie n'est aussi palpable que sur Drury Street, avec ses bars gourmands hauts en couleur, ses cafés branchés et l'incontournable Loose Canon, réputé pour ses vins naturels et ses fromages locaux.

Pour une expérience culinaire originale à Dublin, testez le minuscule Assassination Custard, connu pour ses plats de saison et son atmosphère typiquement irlandaise. Vous pouvez aussi opter pour un déjeuner raffiné dans des restaurants prisés comme Library Street, Comet ou Delahunt, installé dans un superbe bâtiment victorien. Envie de quelque chose de plus décontracté ? Vous trouverez un mélange parfait d'architecture historique, d'ambiance cosy et d'excellente cuisine dans des pubs gastronomiques comme The Legal Eagle, L Mulligan Grocer et Ryan’s of Parkgate Street, tous nichés dans de magnifiques décors du XIXe siècle.

Vous souhaitez découvrir les coulisses de la scène culinaire dublinoise ? Participez au Walking Food Tour avec Kevin Adams, qui vous dévoile la scène culinaire locale de l'intérieur.

Dublin est aujourd'hui une destination européenne incontournable pour la gastronomie, mais la ville s'est depuis longtemps imposée comme une référence en matière de boissons. C'est ici qu'est née la Guinness, l’une des bières brunes les plus célèbres au monde, et la meilleure façon de découvrir son histoire est de visiter le Guinness Storehouse.

Le quartier des Liberties, où se trouve le Storehouse, est un secteur authentique et plein de caractère. Vous y trouverez également plusieurs distilleries de whiskey proposant des visites guidées, notamment Teeling, Pearse Lyons et Roe & Co. Pour en savoir plus sur l’histoire du whiskey, rendez-vous à Smithfield et visitez la distillerie Jameson, où vous pourrez participer à un atelier de préparation de cocktails à base de whiskey. Vous pouvez aussi visiter l'Irish Whiskey Museum où vous attendent des expositions, des visites guidées et une salle de dégustation.

À la tombée du jour, Dublin s’anime. Découvrez le meilleur de la scène de musique traditionnelle de la ville avec une tournée des pubs en musique, ou dirigez-vous vers des pubs comme O’Donohue’s, The Cobblestone et Pipers Corner pour profiter de concerts live et d'une ambiance vibrante.

Envie de quelque chose de plus raffiné ? Pourquoi ne pas réserver une soirée gastronomique dans l'un des meilleurs restaurants de Dublin ? Choisissez le restaurant doublement étoilé Chapter One, savourez un dîner avec vue sur le canal à l’élégant Lena dans le quartier branché de Portobello, ou rendez-vous chez Frank’s sur Camden Street Lower pour déguster des vins biodynamiques et des plats de saison dans une ancienne boucherie.

Ville verte par excellence, Dublin mêle parcs généreux et magnifique architecture du XVIIIe siècle. Commencez la matinée par une promenade à St Stephen’s Green ou Merrion Square, en vous imprégnant de la quiétude végétale, de l'atmosphère détendue du parc et des rangées de superbes maisons géorgiennes.

Ensuite, faites une pause café et gâteau chez Margadh RHA, un petit café-restaurant joliment lumineux situé dans la galerie de la Royal Hibernian Academy de Dublin, au cœur des élégants bâtiments géorgiens d’Ely Place. Ou essayez The Commons Café, situé au sous-sol du Musée de la littérature irlandaise sur Stephen's Green.

Situated on Ireland’s southeast coast, Waterford is easily accessible from Dublin, whether you choose to rent a car and drive or travel by public transport. By road, the journey takes around 2hr 30 minutes (170km), but there are also convenient bus and rail services from Dublin city. The JJ Kavanagh 736 coach service and the 600 bus from Anderson’s Quay both take approximately 2 hours 15–30 minutes.

Alternatively, hop on a train at Dublin’s Heuston Station and enjoy a scenic, relaxing journey to Waterford, passing along the coast and through open farmland and rolling green fields. The journey takes around 2 hours and 10 minutes, and you’ll arrive in the heart of the city at Plunkett Station.

Hotels are plentiful in Waterford, with popular options including the Granville Hotel and the Waterford Marina Hotel. After checking into your accommodation, it’s time to discover the city on foot.

With its compact size, easy-going atmosphere and pleasant waterfront location, Waterford feels more like a small town than a big city. Founded by the Vikings in 914 as a trading port, the city’s history unfolds as you wander its cobbled medieval streets and riverfront quays.

Waterford is famous for its lively festivals, and one of the most colourful is Waterford Walls, a 10-day celebration of street art and creativity held in August. If you’re not in town for the festival, don’t worry; you can still enjoy some of the amazing street art that has sprung up around the city since 2015. For a more personal experience, book an Old Town Art Tour with Street Art Ink, which starts on Barrack Street and finishes at The Apple Market.

The Apple Market, a covered square in the centre of town, is also a perfect destination for dinner. Check out Geoff’s, a landmark city café and pub that dates back to 1907 when it first opened as a grocery pub. Old timber tables, quirky art and rustic décor invite you to linger over comfort food classics, while music keeps things lively after dark.

Hotels are plentiful in Waterford, with popular options including the Granville Hotel and the Waterford Marina Hotel. After checking into your accommodation, it’s time to discover the city on foot.

With its compact size, easy-going atmosphere and pleasant waterfront location, Waterford feels more like a small town than a big city. Founded by the Vikings in 914 as a trading port, the city’s history unfolds as you wander its cobbled medieval streets and riverfront quays.

For a small city, Waterford boasts an outstanding array of things to do, from tranquil gardens to world-class museums. A walk through its streets reveals everything from Viking history to grand architecture, and on a boat trip down the river with Osprey Viking Cruises, you can enjoy afternoon tea with a scenic backdrop.

No visit to the city is complete without trying out a “blaa”, a soft bread roll that boasts Protected Geographical Indication status. Introduced by French Huguenots in the 17th century, they are best enjoyed packed with crispy bacon and make a perfect start to the day. The expert bakers at Walsh’s have been making blaas at Walsh’s Bakehouse since 1921, preserving a tradition that remains at the heart of Waterford’s food culture today.

Waterford Treasures is a collection of museums and experiences that brings the city’s fascinating history to life. Opt for the discounted Freedom of Waterford ticket and enjoy an insider’s introduction to the city, including a guided walking tour of the Viking Triangle with an expert guide. The ticket also includes admission to the Medieval Museum, Bishop’s Palace, the Irish Museum of Time, the Irish Silver Museum and Christ Church Cathedral.

Also worth a visit, although not included in the ticket, is the Irish Wake Museum. Housed in what was once a 15th-century almshouse, it explores Irish traditions, folklore and superstitions surrounding life and death.

One of Waterford’s biggest claims to fame is its world-renowned luxury crystal. Visit the House of Waterford Crystal for a fascinating insight into the craftsmanship and intricate processes involved in transforming molten crystal into timeless works of art. Then pop into Kite Design Studios opposite Christ Church Cathedral and enjoy some more mouthblown, hand-cut crystal from The Irish Handmade Glass Factory.

After exploring what the city has to offer, it’s time to escape into the county.

Named the top destination in Ireland by Condé Nast Traveller, Waterford basks in natural beauty, with scenic fishing villages, craggy mountains and lush green fields tumbling down to the coast. You can walk the Dunmore East Cliffs Walk from the scenic seaside village of Dunmore, famed for its thatched cottages, or explore the wild beauty of the Comeragh and Knockmealdown mountains.

One of the most enjoyable ways to experience the county is by cycling the Waterford Greenway, a spectacular 46km off-road route for cyclists and walkers that runs from Waterford city to the coastal town of Dungarvan. The route crosses 11 bridges and three impressive Victorian viaducts, and along the way, you’ll encounter many of the nooks and crannies of Irish history.

Norman castles, ethereal monasteries, welcoming villages – they’re all part of the rich tapestry of the region.

You can rent bikes in Waterford city and explore some or all of the route, but one must-visit stop along the way is Mount Congreve Gardens. These magnificent gardens were created by Irish industrialist Ambrose Congreve, who oversaw the transformation of more than 70 acres of woodland.

Today, set within a beautiful estate overlooking the River Suir, Mount Congreve is a testament to his passion and dedication. Its winding pathways offer ever-changing views across the gardens and surrounding landscape with an impressive collection of magnolias, camellias, Japanese cherries, azaleas and rhododendrons. Set against the backdrop of a beautiful 18th-century house, the gardens are considered among the finest in the world.

If you’re looking for a more relaxing way to visit the gardens, hop aboard the Waterford Suir Valley Railway. From Kilmeaden Station, you can step back in time aboard this restored heritage railway, brought back to life as part of a community heritage project. The journey takes you across farmland and along the banks of the River Suir. Let the railway know in advance that you’d like to stop at Mount Congreve, and they’ll arrange to let you off – it’s a delightful way to arrive.

An alternative option is to explore the Copper Coast UNESCO Global Geopark. Named after the 19th-century copper mines that lie at its heart, it offers an experience that takes in everything from wave-lashed cliffs to lively seaside towns.

Following the coastal road on a two-hour round trip, you’ll discover plenty of great stop-offs along the way. At Guillamene Cove, deep, clear waters invite you in for a swim, while at Tramore you can feast on fresh-off-the-boat seafood at The Beach House. From Newtown, the route continues through photogenic coastal villages such as Annestown, where you can try your hand at sea foraging with The Sea Gardener along the scenic shoreline.

There are beautiful sandy beaches at Kilmurrin and Bunmahon, as well as the secluded gravel cove of Trá na mBó. Other highlights include fascinating landmarks such as the historic Tankardstown Copper Mines.

If romantic walks and riverside castles are more your thing, then head instead to the small village of Lismore. Presided over by one of Ireland’s most distinctive and picturesque riverside castles, the gardens at Lismore Castle are among the oldest cultivated gardens on the island of Ireland.

Parts of the garden walls date back to the 13th century, and walking around here you’ll be treated to spectacular views of Lismore Castle and the Blackwater Valley. One of the most enjoyable ways to experience the gardens is with a picnic, and baskets prepared by the castle chef are available for pre-order when booking a garden visit. Expect tasty treats including cakes, scones and savoury snacks, as well as apple juice from the orchard.

A short drive outside Lismore are the Ballysaggartmore Towers, two ornate 19th-century Gothic-style structures hidden in woodland. Walking the 2km trail to the towers here feels like entering a fairy tale – it’s an enchanting place surrounded by lush green ash, oak, sycamore and horse chestnut trees.

Back in Waterford, end the day enjoying the best of Ireland’s locally sourced produce at Momo, an award-winning restaurant in the heart of the city.