Caravanning in the South of Ireland (2 weeks)

Day 1

The spirituality of the early Irish monks

The first leg of our 14-day southern circular route whisks you away to one of Ireland's most historic sites: Clonmacnoise. To get there, cross the Emerald Isle on the M6, which runs from the Irish Sea to the Atlantic: at the heart of the country you will enter County Offaly. Head straight to the famous monastic ruins, which date back to the 6th century and the beginning of Ireland's conversion to Christianity. The missionary movement that originated here influenced the whole of Europe. Returning to the present, shortly before, there is a turn off to Tullamore town and castle, which adds on a good 10 km. The historic town is famous today for Tullamore Dew, a world-class Irish whiskey. (A visit to the distillery should be booked online in advance.) Return via Shannonbridge to the M6, the quickest route west. The destination for the first rest day is Doolin in County Clare. Shortly before Galway take the M18 southwards.

Into the west of County Clare and the lunar landscapes of the Atlantic coast

At Galway Bay you have reached the entry point to the Wild Atlantic Way, and one of the most astonishing and wildest landscapes of Ireland, the karst region of the Burren. It is under the auspices of UNESCO, as it is a magnificent geological rarity. You have the choice: The R460/480 cuts through the middle of the National Park. And if you would like to go walking here tomorrow, stop at the Information Point in the Clare Heritage Centre in Corofin. The N67, on the other hand, crosses this bizarre moonscape further north. Closer to the sea, we find the Wild Atlantic Way South, offering a coastal drive along increasingly narrow, winding roads to the R477 towards Doolin. Watch out for bottlenecks: tour buses may come in the opposite direction. A longer stop at the coastal road viewpoints and a walk along the eroded limestone terraces up to the waterfront of the bay is highly recommended.

Day 2

By sea: to the Aran Islands archipelago

A rest day in Doolin is unforgettable. At the Burren and Cliffs of Moher Geopark you will find Ireland's Cliff Coast – a region of wild beauty, transformed by the sea. The moonscape of the Burren dips down into Galway Bay and rises up again offshore on the Aran Islands, in the form of magical islands. Their archaic ringforts are world-renowned, particularly Dún Aonghasa. If you would like an unforgettable excursion, there are two great options: if the weather is fine and you have found your sea legs, you should definitely take a boat tour to visit one of the Aran Islands. With Inis Oírr, Inis Meáin and Inis Mór you have three islands to choose from and, where appropriate, you can enjoy a return journey beneath the magnificent Cliffs of Moher. Pop into the tourist office on the pier or in the town for recommendations.

Inland: in the Burren moonscapes

Alternatively, you can discover the Burren and the Cliffs of Moher. The Visitor Centre, 10 km south of Doolin, can also be reached by foot over the Cliffs of Moher Coastal Path. The Burren is a great destination for exploring inland. You can even leave your vehicle behind, as shuttle buses run from the campsite. Take some time to discover the Burren and its unusual beauty. Because when will you next get a chance to go to the moon? The Information Point at the Clare Heritage Centre in Corofin is the best entry point. It is run by the National Park and Wildlife Service and visitors are provided with a map. Then, just round the corner, you can visit Caherconnell, a Celtic ringfort. Here there are attractions galore: the magical Poulnabrone Dolmen, for instance, which was probably built in the midst of this barren landscape sometime during the Neolithic period, between 3800 and 3200 BC. Or the stalactite Aillwee Caves and Fanore Beach. The evening belongs to Doolin, an Irish folk music hub, where you can visit the pubs famous for Irish singing close to the beautiful campsite at Doolin Pier, just opposite the magnificent Cliffs of Moher.

Day 3

From the craggy coastline to the Southern Peninsulas

A long drive takes you from Doolin on Galway Bay over the Shannon to the Dingle Peninsula. You have a choice: leave the Wild Atlantic Way and travel overland towards Limerick for a visit to the city (N85 – M18/N18 – N69 approx. 70 km more and partly subject to tolls) or take the small ferry boat over to Tarbert (2 hours plus ferry journey). Both routes have their own appeal and meet again near Tralee. From there, it is another 100 km on the Dingle Peninsula. On the way to the Killimer ferry, after Doolin (R479 to R478) there is a signpost for the magnificent Cliffs of Moher, if you haven't already been there. Continue through the peaceful Shannon region on the N67. Those who wish to avoid narrow roads, should follow this road through Kilrush and then the ferryboat signs to Killimer ferry terminal.

From County Clare to County Kerry

The crossing over the Shannon Estuary is stunning and, with a bit of luck, you will see some dolphins. When you reach Tarbert you have arrived in County Kerry. From here the N69 takes you through Listowel towards Tralee. A coffee stop in this beautiful town is recommended. For the onward journey to Dingle YOU MUST follow the N86 south. Warning: the Conor Pass (R560) is closed to vehicles over 2t, so it is impassable for caravans and motorhomes. Stop in Dingle to take a stroll through this charming Irish town. The tourist office at the harbour provides information for the following day's island exploration. A nice spot to spend the night is at the famous Gallarus Oratory in the west. To get there, you can cross the islands on the R559 or simply follow the Ring of Dingle, with its beautiful vistas over the wild coastline – in a clockwise direction!

Oratory House Camping (Irish: Campail Teach an Aragail) is Europe's most westerly campsite, situated at the "edge of the world", on the tranquil and beautiful Dingle peninsula, where you can breathe in the purest and freshest sea air. This is an Irish speaking area, known as a Gaeltacht, like the Aran Islands, with special spiritual places. Visitors are instantly aware of this unique culture, its magnificent archaeology and scenery, surrounded by music, poetry and stories. A pub and restaurant are situated in the nearby fishing village of Baile na nGall, where there is an on-site information centre, and the world famous Gallarus Oratory is only a few minutes' walk away.

Day 4

Time to visit Dingle in a clockwise direction

When spending a rest day on the Dingle Peninsula, you are spoilt for choice with the number of activities offered. The Ring of Dingle takes you to most of the attractions and countless archaeological sites: prehistoric forts, Stone Age relics and the beehive huts of the early Irish monks. Motorhome and caravan drivers must observe the direction of travel of the tour buses on the Ring of Dingle – particularly at Slea Head Drive on the south-west tip. They travel in a clockwise direction! Stay calm behind them and take it easy along this dream road to many magnificent tourist destinations and enjoy the natural beauty of this wonderful peninsula. For hikers, the Dingle Way is the best trail.

Circuit of the Ring of Dingle
A visit to the Gallarus Oratory chapel in the morning is a noble way to start off your Ring of Dingle circuit. Firstly, drive north, passing the many spectacular natural sights of this wonderful peninsula and then head southeast on the R549 to Dingle town – in a clockwise direction – and back again. Ensure you have time for the approx. 30 km-long Slea Head Drive ahead to the west. This coastal stretch on the narrow roads of the far-reaching Dingle Peninsula is one of the most spectacular. The town of Dingle itself, with its pleasant pubs and shops, is an inviting place to take a stroll or do a spot of shopping. Whiskey fans will find the Dingle Distillery at the entrance to the town. The day tours set off from the harbour to and around the Blasket Islands.

Useful information

Drivers of motorhomes and caravans should generally observe the direction of traffic of the coaches on the Ring of Dingle: they drive in a clockwise direction! Follow them! If one of the many tour buses meets a wide vehicle on a narrow to single-lane road, this can quickly lead to gridlock – not only during peak season. Stay calm behind them and take it easy along this dream road, which often runs close to the coast, while soaking in the natural beauty of this wonderful peninsula. On the Ring of Kerry, incidentally, the route goes in exactly the opposite direction: anti-clockwise!

Day 5

Dingle and Inch

Today's journey starts near the Gallarus Oratory. The Ring of Dingle takes you – in a clockwise direction, like yesterday – along this peninsula's dream road to Dingle town and back to the WAW (South). This morning, you can take the N86 – passing Inch Beach – to Killarney National Park. In the evening you will find a campsite on the outskirts of the National Park, as overnight stays inside the park are not permitted. At Muckross House, at the centre of the Park, there is a large car park for visitors that can accommodate camping vehicles. However, a word of warning: it closes in the evening and unlocking it is expensive. Don't let it come to this, please pay attention to the closing times. This is a question of protecting one of the last large nature reserves in Ireland.

Killarney National Park's idyllic forests and lakes

With its lake and forest landscapes, the Killarney National Park is an exceptionally beautiful nature reserve that is probably unlike any other in Europe. Waterfalls and wonderful ancient trees, including mighty redwoods, are only some of its many special features. The park is home to the last oak forests in Ireland. Hikes from Muckross House to the nearby abbey (1.5 km) and short walks along the lake shores are wonderful excursions and easy to do on foot. Alternatively, you can hire carriages or bikes for the afternoon, to spend a few hours doing a circuit of the lakes. In the evening, you can make your way to the campsite. Just nearby you will find Fleming's White Bridge Caravan & Camping Park on the outskirts of Killarney.

Day 6

In the morning, head to the seashore of south-west Kerry. A lovely resting spot on the mild Gulf Stream coast awaits you in Cahersiveen, right on the shore of the Iveragh peninsula. Of the roads there, the N71 is the preferred road back as far as Killarney, which is highly recommended for a first sightseeing stop. You are now travelling on the upper Ring of Kerry. Killarney has a lot of tour buses and they travel – unlike in Dingle – in an anti-clockwise direction. Therefore get in line, relax and follow them southbound along a spectacular tourist route with beautiful lookout points to stop at, signposted as Discovery Points. After Killarney, follow the N72 towards Killorglin and then the N70 towards Cahersiveen via the Wild Atlantic Way (South).

On the northern Ring of Kerry

The roads here are mostly wide and quick to drive. There are some fantastic viewpoints on this route. Rossbeigh with its wonderful beach, for instance, is a recommended stop. When you reach Cahersiveen, stop and take a stroll round the town. There are good shopping opportunities in this charming town's shops. Stock up on material from the tourist information office for tomorrow's rest day. (A Skellig Coast tourist pass is recommended.) Ask for recommendations, because you will have to decide which of the great offers, excursions and attractions to go for in one of the most beautiful places on the Ring of Kerry. After driving through the town, you will see a school next to a monument on the right at the end of the town. Directly behind it a gravel road turns sharp right, taking you to the entrance to Mannix Point Camping and Caravanning Park, which is right on the seafront in south-west Kerry.

Day 7

Iveragh Peninsula and Cahersiveen

A rest day in pleasant Cahersiveen, on the Ring of Kerry, right by the sea; a place where you need to weigh up your options before deciding what to do next. There are more than enough sightseeing options: nearby Staigue Fort, one of the most beautiful ringforts in Ireland, Ballycarbery Castle and O'Connor's birthplace are all easy to reach by bicycle or even on foot. Or simply enjoy the view of the sea. When evening comes, you might like to visit one of the many pleasant restaurants and pubs. If you have a thirst for action and want to explore the region, you may like to visit Valentia Island – take the R565 and cross the toll-free bridge in the picturesque port town of Portmagee, then return by ferry from Knightstown. At the jetty for the shuttle ferries you can buy freshly caught fish and lobsters for dinner. The island's roads are sometimes narrow, single-tracks, but with a degree of caution they are easily driveable. It is only the road to the lighthouse that it is steep and narrow and NOT recommended for motorhomes.

Ring of Skellig coastal route 

The circuit of Valentia Island is rewarded by a magnificent view of the monks' island, Skellig Michael, to the west. If you would like to visit this UNESCO World Heritage Site by boat, book in advance through an approved operator only – they operate from Portmagee, Ballinskelligs and Caherdaniel. Your trip will always be dependent on the weather, and only a limited number of people are allowed to land on the island. Alternatively, visit the Skellig Experience or grab a seat on the popular boats that sail around the island, which is also famous after its starring role in Star Wars: Episode VII and VIII. On the Wild Atlantic Way, all the way up to Donegal you will find a number of filming locations, including some here on the Skellig Ring. After Portmagee the road turns southwards and winds along the wonderful coast on the narrow R567 and then back to wide N70. If you want to enjoy relaxing excursions, it is considerably quieter than the busy Ring of Kerry.

Day 8

The south of Kerry in an anticlockwise direction

From Cahersiveen and the Iveragh peninsula, today takes you further along the Southern Peninsulas route, to the southern stretch of the heavily travelled Ring of Kerry. Coach tours also dominate here – and, like you, they are also travelling south in an anti-clockwise direction. If you drive to Kenmare today, you will enjoy the magnificent view of the sea on your right. To the south on this spectacular tourist trail there are a number of panorama stops and many touristic highlights: Caherdaniel with its idyllic park, the former seat of O'Connell, "The Liberator", who peacefully defended the independence of the Irish state. The Wild Atlantic Way signposts will indicate the onward route: via the N70 to Waterville, where you can pose with Charlie Chaplin. Waterville, which he chose as his holiday destination in the 1960s and 1970s, has erected a life-sized bronze statue of him on its long promenade.

From peninsula to peninsula: Beara

A stroll is called for, in colourful Sneem or in the beautiful small town of Kenmare. The relaxing calm of the south becomes increasingly noticeable. On sunny days, the estuaries gleam with a striking inky blue colour. Opposite the coastal road on the other side of the water, you are accompanied by a view of the outstretched finger of the Beara peninsula from Kerry to Cork. It is not without its problems for motorhomes and caravans. The roads on the Ring of Beara get increasingly narrow as you move westwards and some of the thoroughfares are weight-restricted and at best only passable for smaller campervans. Meanwhile, Glengarriff offers a comfortable place to stay overnight on the N71 at the end of this day's leg. The drive over Healy Pass is breathtaking and a tourist highlight, as the winding roads rise to a height of over 300 metres to reach a magnificent view of Glenmore Lake – although these are single-lane roads with passing spaces. Driving to the outermost extreme of the headland to visit Dursey Island is definitely not recommended for wider vehicles.

Day 9

At the edge of the world: at Sheep's Head and Mizen Head

Of the five peninsulas in the south-west, there are still two that come after Beara: Sheep's Head and Mizen Head. The small roads seem to get increasingly narrow here at this glorious edge of the world. The roads on Sheep's Head are definitely very narrow and no longer unconditionally recommended for all RVs. It is much better to take your bicycles here or to hike. And Mizen Head is another of the Southern Peninsulas that involves recreational vehicles having to navigate narrow ridges to reach its westerly point. The lighthouse on the headland buffeted by the wind and weather is certainly amazing. Meanwhile, wide vehicles must exercise caution when accessing the road to the Visitor Centre. From there, you can only go on foot to the fantastic cliffs. This is 50 km from Bantry and an organised tour, by coach or taxi, from this small harbour town (which is well worth seeing) is certainly more relaxing than the dubious adventure of conducting an RV balancing act along the ridges and the anxiety of getting stuck. Drivers towing caravans should in any case remain on the N71.

To the Old Head of Kinsale in the south

The onward journey on the N71 via thriving Skibbereen to Rosscarbery beach on the Irish Riviera has its particular charms. The Haven Coast between Ballydehob and Kinsale, known for its Mediterranean vegetation, is the last large region on the Wild Atlantic Way, the famous Irish coastal road, although it is far from being the last down here on the Celtic Sea. Founded by the Vikings, many of the places and towns here in the south have a long history. Trade and fishing have supported the whole region since the Middle Ages and brought it prosperity. And last but not least, inspired its excellent cuisine. However, nowadays most of the boats are used for whale watching or taking tourists for a sail along the magnificent coast. Garrettstown is a great place to spend the night, not far from the entry and exit points of the Wild Atlantic Way.

Day 10

Entry and exit point of the Wild Atlantic Way on the Irish Riviera

Kinsale is a town popular with tourists from all over the world. The pretty town marks a start and an end, as it's the gateway to the Wild Atlantic Way. From the Southern Peninsulas, this tour now heads eastwards, across the middle of the island, and aims for Ireland's Ancient East, predominantly along the coast. After an unmissable visit to the lovely small town of Kinsale, we now head to the University City of Cork. Ring the bells at St Ann's Church and visit the butter museum. After a guided tour or sightseeing at your own pace, a delicious lunch in the English Market is the order of the day: a culinary and aesthetic experience to savour.

From Cork to the emigration port of Cobh

Once you have got your strength back, in the early afternoon, Cork's revitalised old sea port is worth a visit: Cobh is situated only a few kilometres from the city. Those driving there in their own motorhome should park on the promenade. Cobh took its place in Ireland's history not only because it was an emigration port, but also because it was from here that the Titanic set sail on its fateful journey. Those who have visited the Titanic Building in Belfast, will want to see the exhibition's southern Irish counterpart, which is right on the harbour: for the Titanic Experience you take on the role of one of the passengers. Cobh Heritage Centre tells the tragic story of Irish emigration. Cobh, a vivacious small town, is nowadays an appealing summer resort. For evening relaxation, there is the Jasmine Villa Caravan & Camping Park in Carrigtwohill.

Day 11

Head eastwards via the Mediterranean south coast

From Carrigtwohill the route snakes through Ireland's Mediterranean south and its Ancient East, steeped in history. Whiskey fans will be tempted to take a detour after just 5 km to visit the Jameson Distillery near Midleton. Online booking for a guided tour is recommended and a tasting is perhaps best booked on the previous afternoon. Luckily, the campsite is not too far away. Taking the N25 towards Youghal, the route follows the beautiful southern coastline on the Celtic Sea to Tramore. The old port town in County Cork, lies at the mouth of the River Blackwater and bears witness to the conflict-laden history of the affluent south, a highly coveted region rampaged by devastating naval battles since the Early Middle Ages. Dungarvan, the old fortress town on the River Colligan, awaits you on the east coast with beautiful beaches for a picnic, such as Clonea Strand. Ahead of you is County Waterford.

Panorama of the Copper Coast Drive

After a detour to the Monksland Centre in Knockmahon, Bunmahon, you will reach the Copper Coast's UNESCO Global Geopark. A journey through geological history awaits, taking you some 460 million years back to the mines of the modern era. Set aside some time for this. The Copper Coast Drive leads you between Stradbally in the west and Fenor in the east along a dramatic coastline and into a geologically unique region. Since primeval times, the local economy and trade relations have been based on copper mining: right back to the Bronze Age, when copper was the most important raw material – in addition to tin, which probably came from Cornwall and Devon in the UK. Get out and walk along the wonderful footpaths: follow an Audio Heritage Trail into prehistoric times. This evening, you will be rewarded for it at Tramore Beach, with its relaxing 4 km-long sandy beach. A beautiful place to spend the night near Tramore is the Newtown Cove Camping site.

Day 12

From the Celtic Sea to St George's Channel

A morning dip in the sea from the wide Tramore beach will refresh you for the start of another day's driving. Today's destination, the city of Waterford, is only 10 kilometres away – after visiting it you will carry on to Wexford on the Irish Sea. Hook Lighthouse & Heritage Centre makes for an attractive detour some 35 km to the south in Churchtown on the Hook Peninsula. The lighthouse was important for shipping for over eight centuries and was carefully maintained by monks during stormy nights in the Middle Ages. Meanwhile, Waterford, the former capital of Ireland in the county of the same name, is directly on the way. Like Youghal in County Cork and Dublin, Waterford is a city that was founded by the Vikings and is actually one of the oldest of these in Ireland, dating from 914.

From the time of the Vikings to the Middle Ages and into the modern era

Waterford is worthy of a long walk: its 1100 year-old history takes us from the prosperous times of medieval wine trading to the volatile realms of early modern times. Waterford Crystal is one of the legacies, and is an important symbol of creativity through the ages. The trio of Waterford Treasures museums, and the Waterford Viking Triangle tell the story of these times really well. If you have time, take a break in New Ross to see the Dunbrody emigrant ship upon which US President Kennedy's ancestors, like thousands of others, departed for America. In the evening, enjoy some relaxation by the Irish Sea at Morriscastle, a stunning campsite nestled among the dunes.

Day 13

From the sandy beaches of the Irish Sea

We begin our penultimate day in Ireland's Ancient East with a morning stroll along the wide sandy beaches of Morriscastle. And then move on to Brittas Bay, behind the wide sand dunes bordering the Irish Sea. Dublin lies ahead on our journey, and this is a popular bathing beach for Dubliners, which is scarcely 50 km away. However, beforehand, there is enough time to take a detour to the Wicklow Mountains. On the coastal drive there, Ashford is perfect for a lunch break and a visit to Mount Usher Gardens. They are a colourful delight and a real masterpiece of landscape architecture.

Through the Wicklow Mountains to Glendalough

Further along this day's leg lies the amazing, old monastery ruins of Glendalough. In the valley of two lakes, this is a symbol of Ireland's religion and spirituality. A stroll here leads you through one of the great landscapes of the east coast, into the heart of the Wicklow Mountains National Park. A nearby place to spend the night is the spacious Redcross Campsite. Those who wish to visit the campsite brewery should check in by 5pm at the latest.

Day 14

Return: via Wexford to Rosslare

The last day of this circuit means it's the return leg: back to our starting point of Dublin or back to the UK via the ferry terminal at Rosslare. Both routes should be completed in a short time – even taking into account the ferry departure times. Taking the direct route it is 80 km to Wexford on the M11, and the journey takes a good hour. Then it is still another 20 km at least to Rosslare ferry terminal. Those preferring to leave out yesterday's leg and immediately travel south will find that beautiful Wexford offers a nice campsite in Ferrybanks, right on the Irish Sea. On the way there, you will see the Irish National Heritage Park in Ferrycarrig, an open-air museum which wonderfully depicts 9,000 years of Irish history and offers a fantastic retrospective on your journey through time.

Return journey: via the Old Military Road to Dublin

Those driving to Dublin today can also enjoy the Wicklow National Park and explore the vast, green landscapes of the east coast. The recommended route leads you through the Wicklow Mountains over the narrow Military Road R115 and the Sally Gap back to Dublin. On the way you will find the Glencree Centre for Peace and Reconciliation, where Operation Shamrock received German refugee children after the Second World War. If you are in a hurry or prefer wide roads, switch over to the M11 coastal route and take the motorway to Dublin. Powerscourt Estate and its famous gardens are on the way.

 

However you plan your route, this unforgettable tour will surely persuade you to come back to Ireland. Whether it is to discover the north in our second 14-day tour. Or to travel around Ireland under your own steam. Céad míle fáilte: you are a hundred thousand times welcome!