Stand on the quays in Waterford, breathe in the salty air, and it’s easy to imagine this city on Ireland’s south-east coast in the 1700s, when trade with Newfoundland helped turn it into one of Ireland’s great ports. The wealth that flowed through its harbour reshaped the city centre in the 18th century, leaving behind the grand Georgian houses and elegant streets that still define much of the city today. Waterford city is nothing if not layered. Its origins reach back to the Vikings, but today it feels thoroughly contemporary with a flourishing food scene, vibrant arts and culture, and a coastal cycling route that winds through the County Waterford countryside to Dungarvan. Isn’t it time you discovered Waterford for yourself?
Waterford Greenway, County Waterford
Courtesy of Luke Myers
The Vikings knew a good thing when they saw it: a sheltered bay, a strategic location on the River Suir, and a good trading position all attracted the Norse raiders here. And 1,100 years later, it’s still going strong. Reginald’s Tower, the city’s landmark monument, sits at the heart of the Viking Triangle and has been in continuous use for over 800 years. Step inside its thick stone walls, and you can enjoy an exhibition on Viking Waterford, as well as the magnificent 12th-century Kite Brooch.
Where culture meets “craic”You’ll find more history within the Medieval Museum, where one of Waterford’s treasures – 15th-century cloth-of-gold vestments – are on display. The Bishop’s Palace on the beautiful Georgian Mall displays the wealth, beauty and architectural detail of an 18th-century townhouse.
Nearby is the Irish Wake Museum, which explores rituals around life and death in Ireland, and the Irish Museum of Time, housed in a beautiful Gothic-style church and showcasing the craftsmanship of clockmakers and watchmakers from the 17th century to today.
Clearly, Waterford packs a big punch when it comes to history, but the city also has a rich cultural life – from a buzzing festival calendar to great local pubs and restaurants, including Grow HQ, The Reg and The Gingerman.
Enjoy the heritage of Waterford’s famous cut glass at the House of Waterford Crystal; taste a “blaa” (a speciality bread roll unique to the city) at the Granary Café; or visit the bustling food market at Merchant’s Quay.
Lismore Castle and Gardens, County Waterford
Courtesy Waterford City and County Council
Explore beyond the city into Ireland’s Ancient East, and you’ll discover some of the most beautiful coastal scenery on the island of Ireland. One of the most popular activities is the Waterford Greenway, a 46km off-road cycle route that stretches from Waterford city to the coastal town of Dungarvan. A stop-off en route at Mount Congreve Gardens to explore one of the world’s largest private plant collections is a must.
The Copper Coast UNESCO Global Geopark is a key draw with its beautiful, rugged cliffs, bays and sandy coves, while the pretty village of Dunmore East is a favourite for its coastal walks, beaches and thatched cottages.
For a glimpse of Waterford’s castles, head just out of the city to Waterford Castle hotel, a wonderful place to stay, or continue inland to Lismore Castle and its scenic gardens.