5 days in Dublin and Ireland's Ancient East

History is always by your side in Dublin – from the city’s Viking roots to its grand 18th-century architecture. At the Book of Kells Experience in Trinity College, journey back to the 9th century and see one of Ireland’s greatest cultural treasures. The exhibition explores the renowned illuminated manuscript and includes a visit to the Long Room, one of the world’s most impressive libraries.

Outside, Trinity’s captivating cobblestoned campus awaits, with its leafy squares, grand architecture and iconic 19th-century campanile. Take a Trinity Trails guided walking tour, and you’ll hear stories about past alumni, including Dracula author Bram Stoker and wit extraordinaire Oscar Wilde, while discovering architectural gems, such as the Museum Building.

A short walk from Trinity are two of Dublin’s top attractions: the National Gallery of Ireland, featuring work by Irish and international artists, and the National Museum of Ireland, Kildare Street, where you’ll find an astonishing collection of prehistoric goldwork. Want to delve into Dublin’s contemporary creative energy? Try a Street Art Walking Tour by Alternative Dublin or spend the afternoon crafting your own Claddagh ring at Dublin Silver Works.

Dublin is a hotbed of culinary creativity, and there’s never been a better time to discover its food scene. From old-school tea rooms and third-wave coffee shops to cutting-edge restaurants offering sharp new takes on Irish classics, the city retains a distinctive edge when it comes to food. Nowhere captures that energy quite like Drury Street, with its colourful array of food-focussed bars, hip cafés and the super-popular Loose Canon, serving natural wines and local cheese.

For a unique Dublin food experience, try the tiny Assassination Custard, known for its seasonal dishes and distinctly Irish atmosphere, or settle in for an upscale lunch at destination restaurants such as Library Street, Comet or Delahunt, housed in a spectacular Victorian building. Looking for something more low-key? You’ll find a perfect mix of historic architecture, cosy vibes and great food in gourmet pubs such as The Legal Eagle, L Mulligan Grocer and Ryan’s of Parkgate Street, all set within beautiful 19th-century surroundings.

Want an inside look at what makes Dublin’s food scene tick? Join The Walking Food Tour with Kevin Adams, which reveals the city’s food scene from the inside out.

Dublin may be a top European destination for great food, but the city has long led the way with great drinks. One of the world’s most famous stouts, Guinness, was born here, and the best way to discover its story is by visiting the Guinness Storehouse.

The Liberties district, where the Storehouse is located, is an authentic and characterful area where you’ll also find several whiskey distilleries offering tours, including Teeling, Pearse Lyons and Roe & Co. For more whiskey history, make your way across to Smithfield and visit the Jameson Distillery, where you can try a whiskey cocktail-making class, or head to the Irish Whiskey Museum for exhibits, tours and a tasting room.

As day turns to night, Dublin comes alive. Experience the best of the city’s traditional music scene with a musical pub crawl, or head to pubs such as O’Donohue’s, the Cobblestone and Pipers Corner for great live tunes and buzzy vibes.

Want to keep it upscale? Why not book in for an evening of gourmet delights at a top Dublin restaurant? Choose from the two-starred Chapter One, enjoy dinner with canal views at elegant Lena in the hip neighbourhood of Portobello, or head to Frank’s on Camden Street Lower for biodynamic wines and seasonal dishes in an old butcher’s shop.

Dublin is a green city at heart with generous parks framed by beautiful 18th-century architecture. Spend the morning strolling through St Stephen’s Green or Merrion Square, soaking up the leafy tranquillity, laid-back park life and the rows of graceful Georgian buildings.

Afterwards, drop in for coffee and cake at Margadh RHA, a small, but beautifully airy café and restaurant at Dublin’s Royal Hibernian Academy gallery, surrounded by the grand Georgian buildings of Ely Place. Or try The Commons Café in the basement of the Museum of Literature Ireland on Stephen’s Green.

If you have more time, it’s worth sticking around Dublin to explore some of its gorgeous coastline. Hop on the Dart (train) and travel the sweep of Dublin Bay to uncover charming villages filled with living history, fantastic food and great craic – all just a short ride out of town.

Head north to the village of Howth, with its great seafood restaurants and cliff walk. Travel south to discover castles and heritage in the pretty village of Dalkey, or enjoy seaside strolls on the Victorian pier in Dún Laoghaire. When you’ve had your fill, it’s time to head to Waterford.

Situated on Ireland’s southeast coast, Waterford is easily accessible from Dublin, whether you choose to rent a car and drive or travel by public transport. By road, the journey takes around 2hr 30 minutes (170km), but there are also convenient bus and rail services from Dublin city. The JJ Kavanagh 736 coach service and the 600 bus from Anderson’s Quay both take approximately 2 hours 15–30 minutes.

Alternatively, hop on a train at Dublin’s Heuston Station and enjoy a scenic, relaxing journey to Waterford, passing along the coast and through open farmland and rolling green fields. The journey takes around 2 hours and 10 minutes, and you’ll arrive in the heart of the city at Plunkett Station.

Hotels are plentiful in Waterford, with popular options including the Granville Hotel and the Waterford Marina Hotel. After checking into your accommodation, it’s time to discover the city on foot.

With its compact size, easy-going atmosphere and pleasant waterfront location, Waterford feels more like a small town than a big city. Founded by the Vikings in 914 as a trading port, the city’s history unfolds as you wander its cobbled medieval streets and riverfront quays.

Waterford is famous for its lively festivals, and one of the most colourful is Waterford Walls, a 10-day celebration of street art and creativity held in August. If you’re not in town for the festival, don’t worry; you can still enjoy some of the amazing street art that has sprung up around the city since 2015. For a more personal experience, book an Old Town Art Tour with Street Art Ink, which starts on Barrack Street and finishes at The Apple Market.

The Apple Market, a covered square in the centre of town, is also a perfect destination for dinner. Check out Geoff’s, a landmark city café and pub that dates back to 1907 when it first opened as a grocery pub. Old timber tables, quirky art and rustic décor invite you to linger over comfort food classics, while music keeps things lively after dark.

Hotels are plentiful in Waterford, with popular options including the Granville Hotel and the Waterford Marina Hotel. After checking into your accommodation, it’s time to discover the city on foot.

With its compact size, easy-going atmosphere and pleasant waterfront location, Waterford feels more like a small town than a big city. Founded by the Vikings in 914 as a trading port, the city’s history unfolds as you wander its cobbled medieval streets and riverfront quays.

For a small city, Waterford boasts an outstanding array of things to do, from tranquil gardens to world-class museums. A walk through its streets reveals everything from Viking history to grand architecture, and on a boat trip down the river with Osprey Viking Cruises, you can enjoy afternoon tea with a scenic backdrop.

No visit to the city is complete without trying out a “blaa”, a soft bread roll that boasts Protected Geographical Indication status. Introduced by French Huguenots in the 17th century, they are best enjoyed packed with crispy bacon and make a perfect start to the day. The expert bakers at Walsh’s have been making blaas at Walsh’s Bakehouse since 1921, preserving a tradition that remains at the heart of Waterford’s food culture today.

Waterford Treasures is a collection of museums and experiences that brings the city’s fascinating history to life. Opt for the discounted Freedom of Waterford ticket and enjoy an insider’s introduction to the city, including a guided walking tour of the Viking Triangle with an expert guide. The ticket also includes admission to the Medieval Museum, Bishop’s Palace, the Irish Museum of Time, the Irish Silver Museum and Christ Church Cathedral.

Also worth a visit, although not included in the ticket, is the Irish Wake Museum. Housed in what was once a 15th-century almshouse, it explores Irish traditions, folklore and superstitions surrounding life and death.

One of Waterford’s biggest claims to fame is its world-renowned luxury crystal. Visit the House of Waterford Crystal for a fascinating insight into the craftsmanship and intricate processes involved in transforming molten crystal into timeless works of art. Then pop into Kite Design Studios opposite Christ Church Cathedral and enjoy some more mouthblown, hand-cut crystal from The Irish Handmade Glass Factory.

After exploring what the city has to offer, it’s time to escape into the county.

Named the top destination in Ireland by Condé Nast Traveller, Waterford basks in natural beauty, with scenic fishing villages, craggy mountains and lush green fields tumbling down to the coast. You can walk the Dunmore East Cliffs Walk from the scenic seaside village of Dunmore, famed for its thatched cottages, or explore the wild beauty of the Comeragh and Knockmealdown mountains.

One of the most enjoyable ways to experience the county is by cycling the Waterford Greenway, a spectacular 46km off-road route for cyclists and walkers that runs from Waterford city to the coastal town of Dungarvan. The route crosses 11 bridges and three impressive Victorian viaducts, and along the way, you’ll encounter many of the nooks and crannies of Irish history.

Norman castles, ethereal monasteries, welcoming villages – they’re all part of the rich tapestry of the region.

You can rent bikes in Waterford city and explore some or all of the route, but one must-visit stop along the way is Mount Congreve Gardens. These magnificent gardens were created by Irish industrialist Ambrose Congreve, who oversaw the transformation of more than 70 acres of woodland.

Today, set within a beautiful estate overlooking the River Suir, Mount Congreve is a testament to his passion and dedication. Its winding pathways offer ever-changing views across the gardens and surrounding landscape with an impressive collection of magnolias, camellias, Japanese cherries, azaleas and rhododendrons. Set against the backdrop of a beautiful 18th-century house, the gardens are considered among the finest in the world.

If you’re looking for a more relaxing way to visit the gardens, hop aboard the Waterford Suir Valley Railway. From Kilmeaden Station, you can step back in time aboard this restored heritage railway, brought back to life as part of a community heritage project. The journey takes you across farmland and along the banks of the River Suir. Let the railway know in advance that you’d like to stop at Mount Congreve, and they’ll arrange to let you off – it’s a delightful way to arrive.

An alternative option is to explore the Copper Coast UNESCO Global Geopark. Named after the 19th-century copper mines that lie at its heart, it offers an experience that takes in everything from wave-lashed cliffs to lively seaside towns.

Following the coastal road on a two-hour round trip, you’ll discover plenty of great stop-offs along the way. At Guillamene Cove, deep, clear waters invite you in for a swim, while at Tramore you can feast on fresh-off-the-boat seafood at The Beach House. From Newtown, the route continues through photogenic coastal villages such as Annestown, where you can try your hand at sea foraging with The Sea Gardener along the scenic shoreline.

There are beautiful sandy beaches at Kilmurrin and Bunmahon, as well as the secluded gravel cove of Trá na mBó. Other highlights include fascinating landmarks such as the historic Tankardstown Copper Mines.

If romantic walks and riverside castles are more your thing, then head instead to the small village of Lismore. Presided over by one of Ireland’s most distinctive and picturesque riverside castles, the gardens at Lismore Castle are among the oldest cultivated gardens on the island of Ireland.

Parts of the garden walls date back to the 13th century, and walking around here you’ll be treated to spectacular views of Lismore Castle and the Blackwater Valley. One of the most enjoyable ways to experience the gardens is with a picnic, and baskets prepared by the castle chef are available for pre-order when booking a garden visit. Expect tasty treats including cakes, scones and savoury snacks, as well as apple juice from the orchard.

A short drive outside Lismore are the Ballysaggartmore Towers, two ornate 19th-century Gothic-style structures hidden in woodland. Walking the 2km trail to the towers here feels like entering a fairy tale – it’s an enchanting place surrounded by lush green ash, oak, sycamore and horse chestnut trees.

Back in Waterford, end the day enjoying the best of Ireland’s locally sourced produce at Momo, an award-winning restaurant in the heart of the city.