Clonmacnoise monastic site

Sitting peacefully on the banks of the River Shannon and shrouded in mystery, the 6th-century monastic site of Clonmacnoise is one of Ireland’s most exceptional historical destinations. Founded by St Ciarán in 544, this sacred place catapults you back to a time of religious, literary and artistic creativity, surrounding you with stories of Viking raids, devotion and kingly connections. Lush green fields, the low-lying meadows of County Offaly and the calm grey-blue waters of the Shannon create the feeling that you’ve stumbled upon an Early Christian secret, a place frozen in time.

Back in the 6th century, while much of Europe languished in the Dark Ages, Ireland was flourishing – so much so that the island became known as the “Land of Saints and Scholars”. From this period until the 12th century, Clonmacnoise was a renowned centre of scholarship, attracting students from across Europe.

Today’s imposing ruins, many of which have undergone comprehensive conservation work, reflect the hive of activity that once thrived here, with more than 1,500 to 2,000 people living and working at the site during the 11th century. Standing amongst the lichen-spotted ruins today, it’s easy to imagine the scurry of monks and the scrape and scribble of artists producing everything from manuscripts to works in stone and metal.

Arriving by boat from Athlone is an incredible way to experience Clonmacnoise. The journey with Viking Tours departs from Athlone Castle and travels along the River Shannon for 90 minutes. It’s a one-way journey with a special bus transfer arranged to return to Athlone after time at the site.

Cruise the River Shannon in 7 days

As there is currently maintenance work taking place in the visitor centre, online booking and guided tours are unavailable. However, it’s still possible to visit the site and wander through the ruins here. Among the notable monuments to look out for is the South Cross, a ringed sandstone cross covered with abstract decoration and thought to date from the 9th century; grave slabs from the 8th to the 12th century carved with different forms of crosses; and the cathedral, originally built in 909.

There is no café available at Clonmacnoise, but there are picnic areas where you can relax and enjoy the spectacular natural and historical surroundings. One of the nearest restaurants to Clonmacnoise is The Village Inn, Bar and Restaurant at Ballinahown – a friendly local spot with great food.

A little further away in Athlone (about a 30-minute drive), you’ll have the pick of places to eat right on your doorstep. Athlone is one of Ireland’s buzziest food destinations, with everything from Michelin-Bib Gourmand dining at Thyme to authentic Lebanese cuisine at Al Mezza.

At Dead Centre Brewing, enjoy a pizza alfresco with great views of the River Shannon; The Fatted Calf offers modern Irish food in a warm, friendly environment; or try Bastion Kitchen for a light lunch of soups and sandwiches.

Find out the best places to eat around Ireland’s Hidden Heartlands

Given its proximity to Athlone, it makes sense to combine a visit to Clonmacnoise with a few days in this small but lively town. As well as the buzzy Sean’s Bar – reputed to be the oldest pub in Ireland – and an elegant contemporary art gallery called the Luan, the town boasts the 12th-century Athlone Castle which commands impressive views over the River Shannon.

It’s this mix of nature and culture that makes Athlone such a rewarding destination, with fabulous outdoor adventures right on your doorstep, from boat trips on the wind-whipped Lough Ree to cycling along the Old Rail Trail Greenway, a purpose-built off-road route between Athlone and Mullingar.

Walkers are in for a treat with a host of beautiful walks in the area. As well as the Old Rail Trail Greenway, there’s the Lough Ree Park Walking Trail, a well-maintained path, encompassing both the waterside and woodlands. Or opt for the 5km Portlick Millennium Forest Walk on the Whinning Peninsula. Running along the lakeside, the trail encompasses the medieval Portlick Castle and is blanketed in bluebells in early summer.

Discover great walks around Ireland’s Hidden Heartlands

For more heritage, try Birr Castle, which has a history that can be traced back to 1170. From May to September, visitors can embark on a castle guided by descendants of the Earl and his wife, whose portraits still adorn the great Victorian dining room.

A very different side of local life can be found at the Derryglad Folk & Heritage Museum, which displays more than 8,500 artefacts displayed in recreated shopfronts, a schoolroom, grocery store and more.

At Clonmacnoise, Ireland’s ancient past meets the quiet beauty of the River Shannon – the perfect place to begin your journey through Ireland’s Hidden Heartlands. Your adventure starts here.