Go car free in County Donegal

Donegal is known for being a little wilder than the rest of Ireland. Its mountains and deep valleys are patchworked with every shade of green, orange and brown. Its rugged coast is a wonderland of deserted beaches, craggy cliffsides and crashing waves. The setting is everything you could want for a rural escape, but happily that doesn’t mean you’ll need a car to get around.

Base yourself in Letterkenny, the largest town in Donegal, and let the Local Link buses (the Regular Rural Bus Service) be your steed as you traverse this spectacular landscape.

Letterkenny is a bustling town with charm and history. You’ll never be short of something to do here and it’s a good base for exploring Donegal’s wilder side. Although it is County Donegal’s largest town, you’ll find that you can get to most of its attractions on foot. Visit the Donegal County Museum for a mixture of temporary and permanent exhibitions showcasing the county’s heritage. Sit a while in the Letterkenny Town Park with a coffee from nearby award-winning Honeypot Coffee House or family-run Mac’s Deli, and feel like a local when you wander off the main streets to explore the town.

When it comes to dining out, don’t miss the Michelin-recommended The Lemon Tree. This family-run restaurant has been here since 1999 and offers exquisite seasonal dishes in a relaxed setting. The Yellow Pepper Restaurant is another local favourite where you can enjoy hearty dishes such as Donegal lamb and Greencastle haddock and chips. In the summer, nothing beats sitting out on its patio and watching the world go by.

Glenveagh National Park is the second largest National Park on the island of Ireland. The Local Link bus will take you from Letterkenny to the park’s Visitor Centre in just under an hour. Sit back and prepare for an epic journey into the mountains with views of Lough Akabbon and Lough Gartan.

Once you arrive at the Visitor Centre, visit Synge and Byrne – an artisan café company that specialises in delicious sandwiches and freshly baked goods made using local suppliers where possible. Once you’re fuelled up, you’ll be ready to explore the many walking trails through the area.

Try the Lakeside Walk which follows the shore of Lough Veagh (3.5km) or the View Point Trail which is possibly the shortest walk but with some of the best views over Glenveagh Castle and Lough Veagh (1km). As you explore, keep an eye on the sky and you may spot one of the golden eagles reintroduced here in 2001 after an absence of over 100 years.

Glenveagh Castle was built in the 1870s by Captain John George Adair, a native of County Laois, who made a fortune in America. Its grandeur and stunning location have made the castle a talking point in the area since. A shuttle bus runs between the Visitor Centre and the castle (4km) throughout the summer, with limited availability during winter months.

Exploring the castle gardens is a must. Admire the vibrant flowers and sweet fruits of the Walled Garden, be transported in the Tuscan Garden and climb the 67 steps that take you on a dramatic ascent up the hillside. Enjoy a self-guided tour of the castle, where you can wander through the drawing room, study and music room. Learn about the gourmet dinners served in the dining room, admire the Kingsley-Porter style library and imagine the eminent visitors (including Greta Garbo and Charlie Chaplin) who have stood in the entrance hall.

Be sure to check the Local Link timetable for updates. The first and last buses of the day should give you approximately 5.5 hours in Glenveagh National Park before you head back to Letterkenny.

Named by The Guardian as one of Ireland’s most charming villages, Rathmullan is a buzzing seaside haven located on the Fanad Peninsula and is accessible from Letterkenny by Local Link bus (approximately 45 minutes). One of the most popular attractions here is the beach with its views of Lisfannon and Inch Island. Go for a dip in the summer when a lifeguard is in attendance, or simply sit by the shore and watch the sailboats bob on the water. Afterwards, treat yourself to a walk around the harbour – you may even spot one of the local fishermen reeling in a catch.

Hungry? You needn’t stray from the harbour as the fish ‘n’ chip vans offer the perfect seaside meal. If you fancy a sit-down feast, there are plenty of options. Look out over Lough Swilly from The Beachcomber Bar, and enjoy the creamy seafood chowder or the classic beer-battered fish. A few steps back from the sea you’ll find Pavilion. Set under a traditional kingpole canvas tent on the grounds of the Georgian Rathmullen House, it serves stone-baked pizzas and craft beers.

There are lots of lovely accommodation options in Rathmullan, and we recommend getting your rest here before you head out on an adventure to Fanad Head Lighthouse. If you’re looking to relax in luxury, the 4-star Rathmullan House Hotel offers the perfect stay. 7 acres of garden and woodland surround Rathmullan House making it a wonderfully serene retreat within easy distance of the lively village.

If you prefer solitude while you ponder the peacefulness of this beautiful landscape then a night in self-catered Kinnegar Beach Cottage is for you. It’s a short walk away from the village, has private access to the beach, all the facilities you’d need for a comfortable stay (a kitchen, bed linens, etc.) and offers that feeling of peaceful isolation you can only find in a natural landscape like this.

On the end of the rocky outcrop known as the Fanad Head Peninsula stands Fanad Head Lighthouse. The once-a-day Local Link bus follows the edge of Lough Swilly with views of the Inishowen Peninsula mountains and Mulroy Bay, until it reaches the white lighthouse (approximately 1 hour). You’ll have 1 hour and 40 minutes here before the bus returns to take you back to Rathmullen.

The Fanad Head Lighthouse tour lasts around 45 minutes, starting in what was once the lighthouse living room. It’s easy to get carried away imagining a life for yourself here; sitting by the open fire with a book from the bookcase on a stormy evening. If the desire for this blissful life becomes overwhelming, you can always book a stay in the Lightkeeper’s Cottage.

Of course, the most important part of the lighthouse is the light itself. On the tour, you’ll learn about the bulbs used over the years – the newest bulb is as small as a thumbnail but can reach 18 nautical miles! Climb the narrow staircase to the top of the lighthouse where you’ll find binoculars. On a good day, you can see Malin Head. 

This trip is only scratching the surface of this gorgeous part of County Donegal. If you catch yourself thinking “I could get used to these ocean views”, then why not continue your adventure along the Causeway Coastal Route?