Dining out in Dublin

The restaurant scene in Dublin is booming. Creative, cool and full of great craic, the city is fast gaining a reputation as one of Europe’s most exciting food destinations. Elegant wine bar-style eateries such as Frank’s, Bar Pez and Row Wines offer stylish settings with a focus on sharing plates, while quirky neighbourhood spots like Assassination Custard deliver a distinctly Dublin experience with plenty of personality. One thing that stands out? The warm welcome. From upscale Michelin-starred restaurants to cool gastropubs, you’re guaranteed a good time in Dublin.

Here are five to try…

This gorgeous restaurant at the top of Camden Street used to be an off-licence, and it still retains many of its original features, including an old counter, Art Deco lights and a snug. The menu focuses on what is seasonally grown in and around Dublin, whether it’s fruit and vegetables from a farm in north Dublin, wild ingredients like blackberries, watercress or young pine needles foraged on the hill of Howth, or sea herbs grown on the coast.

Delahunt’s interior creates a dining atmosphere that is refined and elegant. Book one of the original snugs, including the original cash booth, and you can enjoy the interior to the full, or ask for the two-seater window “love seat” – perfect for people-watching.

Plans can be hard to make, and if you find yourself in Dublin without a reservation, then a great place to head is Frank’s. Yes, it’s primarily a wine bar that serves food, but the small changing menu of dishes is always delicious, with everything from Coppa di Parma ham to tagliatelle with beef ragu.

Set within an old butcher’s shop, the vibe here is relaxed with large communal tables and stools, as well as a few window seats. The “walk-ins only” policy keeps things fresh and lively, with a wine list that is “made up of wines we love”.

Variety Jones is based around a chef’s choice six-course sharing menu by Irish chef and owner Keelan Higgs, the deserved holder of a Michelin star. Menus are seasonal, but always include one of Higg’s courses – spaghetti alfredo – as well as snacks that can range from ceviche to Thai duck sausage.

Set within a smart, elegant space in the Liberties – one of the oldest parts of the city – the restaurant effortlessly blends sophistication with an easy-going style. For Higgs, it’s all about using food as a medium to bring people together. “People start to share food, and all the barriers between communicating come down, and everyone relaxes,” he says. “When they start to tear into food and break bread together, they tend to have a good time. In essence, that’s the style of food we do.”

This simple and compact dining space on Queen Street in the Smithfield area on Dublin’s northside focuses on the freshest, locally caught fish. Expect fresh catches such as hake, haddock, plaice or brill, served lightly beer battered, with chips and tartare sauce. Starters might include Copper Coast prawn croquettes, Roaring Water Bay mussels, or dressed crab on toast.

The queue outside on any given day proves how enduringly popular Fish Shop is, both with locals and visitors. Our advice? Book ahead to score a seat at the bar area, and settle in for some fresh seafood mixed with a thoughtful wine list that includes “Irish winemakers” who are plying their trade outside Ireland.

It is almost worth coming here for the setting alone – take the lift to the top floor of boutique hotel The Mayson, for rooftop views of the River Liffey and the Dublin Docklands, and out past Dublin Port to the iconic Poolbeg towers and Dublin Bay. You can sit in a cosy booth beside floor-to-ceiling glass windows, or take to the terrace in warmer temperatures and soak up the views – and the whole area is lit up at night.

Ryleigh’s is a buzzing spot and is popular for breakfast or weekend brunch, with classics done well, such as eggs Benedict, eggs royale and eggs Florentine. In the evening, the focus is on steaks from the grill with sizes up to a 30oz/850g tomahawk ribeye for two. The menu has options for vegetarians and vegans, plus a 14-point allergen key. There’s a full bar too – check out the cocktails with locally-inspired names like Irish Storm or Marino.