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Go car-free at the Lakes of Killarney and Gap of Dunloe
Located within the Killarney National Park in County Kerry, the Lakes of Killarney are high-drama landscapes infused with wild elemental beauty. This heady mix of glassy waters, tree-studded islands, tumbling waterfalls and mist-shrouded mountains boasts a breathtaking array of things to do, from walks in verdant woodlands where red deer roam to quiet swims in secret coves. It’s the perfect place to reconnect with nature, to “live deep” and enjoy moments of silent wonder surrounded by some of Ireland’s finest scenery.
Jaunting car in the Killarney National Park, County Kerry © Chris Hill Photographic
Going car-free
Fittingly, for a landscape that’s so rugged and secluded, the best way to explore the Lakes of Killarney is without a car – going slow and enjoying every moment. Killarney is accessible from Dublin by train (with a journey time of just over three and a half hours) and getting around is even easier.
The Killarney National Park can be explored on foot, by boat or by bicycle, with regular push bikes and e-bikes available for rentals in town. And if you like to travel in style, then why not try one of the many jaunting cars that clip-clop around the park’s trails and in and out of town?
Here's how to get going…
Muckross House, County Kerry © Cahir Davitt
Muckross House and Gardens
For a snapshot of what Kerry has to offer, few places can rival Muckross House and Gardens. From a gushing waterfall surrounded by woodland to the gently rippling waters of the lake, there’s lots to enjoy. At the heart of it all is Murckross House, a delightful Victorian mansion famously visited by Queen Victoria in 1861. A self-guided tour of the house is a lovely way to spend an hour or so, while a totally different experience is on offer at the Muckross Traditional Farms where you can explore Ireland of the 1930s and 40s in little reconstructed cottages.
Muckross Traditional Farms, County Kerry © Trustees of Muckross House
From the centre of Killarney, it’s about an hour’s walk or a 20-minute cycle to get to Muckross House and Gardens, but once you arrive you should plan a whole day here (or several) as there is so much to see and do. Walking and cycling trails abound, the most beautiful of which is arguably the walk to Torc Waterfall – a 10km hike with a decent ascent, or a shorter cycle.
Another must-see at Muckross Lake is Dinis Cottage – a cottage from the 1700s that operates as a summer tea room and can be reached by following Dinis Road from Muckross House. Just beyond Dinis Cottage is Killarney’s famous “meeting of the waters” – a tranquil and idyllic spot where the three lakes of Lough Leane, Muckross and the Upper Lake converge.
Ross Castle, County Kerry
Lough Leane
Head west from Killarney town and you’ll arrive at Lough Leane (around 40 minutes walking or 15 minutes by bike). The 15th-century Ross Castle is the big draw here and the 45-minute guided tour is well worth taking. If the weather is fine, take a walk around Ross Island after your castle visit – there are nice walking and cycling trails here with some secret places to enjoy a refreshing dip.
But when it comes to really making the most of Lough Leane, the best option is to take a boat. If you’re stuck for time then book the hour-long “Lily of Killarney” Lake Cruise or “Pride of the Lake” Killarney Lake Tour. But for a real adventure, opt for tours that bring you out to the Gap of Dunloe and back – a five-hour jaunt that takes in some of the most exceptional scenery Kerry has to offer.
View of the Upper Lake, Killarney
The Upper Lake
The island-studded Upper Lake is probably the lesser-visited lake but is often regarded as the most scenic with its spectacular views over the rugged pale green MacGillycuddy’s Reeks mountains. The lake is about 16km from Killarney so is best accessed by bike or e-bike. For hikers, this is dream territory. The Owengarriff to Torc Mountain trail is one of the better-known routes and is considered moderately challenging, with a length of around 7.7km. Typified by spectacular mountain views and silvery waters, it’s a mix of trail, boardwalk and rocky steps and starts in a car park off Old Kenmare Road.
Gap of Dunloe, County Kerry © Chris Hill Photographic
Gap of Dunloe
Carved out by glacial flows, the Gap of Dunloe is a remarkable mountain pass that stretches around 11km from north to south. It’s been attracting tourists since the 19th century thanks to its exceptional scenery that feels like a picture-postcard version of Ireland: a long, winding road; pretty little stone bridges; soaring mountains.
How you choose to visit is entirely up to you: many take boats here from Lough Leane as described above, but you could also choose to cycle to Kate Kearney’s Cottage and walk or cycle part of the way (it’s about a 40-minute cycle from Killarney). However you intend you enjoy, the gap will prove to be a memory you’ll have forever.
