Unwind in Westport and the wild

Designed and created as a place to live for the workers and tenants of John Browne from Westport House in the 1780s, Westport retains its historic charms alongside modern, colourful shop fronts and bustling eateries. Walking around, its relaxed charm and warm Irish welcome greet you at every turn, whether you’re enjoying a stroll along the tree-lined Mall – with bridges arching over the waters of the Carrowbeg River – or browsing for wares in local shops like Port West and West Coast Rare Books.

“The small-town welcome that you get in Westport is like nowhere else in the world… it’s not unusual for people to arrive as visitors and leave as friends,” says Stephen Clarke of Westport Walking Tours, which runs award-winning treks around the town. Experience it for yourself at local favourites such as Curry’s Cottage Bakery & Tea Room, known for its sublime lemon apple pie, and Marlene’s Chocolate Haven, with its mouthwatering handmade chocolates.

Westport House is a short walk out of town, passing through the estate woodland and the 18th-century cascade on the Carrowbeg River. Exhibitions explore the history of Grace O’Malley, the 16th-century Pirate Queen of Connacht, who once ruled land and sea, becoming an intrepid mariner, pirate, rebel, shrewd political tactician and trailblazer. The Browne family, who built Westport House, are direct descendants of this incredible woman.

If you have more time, take advantage of the estate’s other gems. Wander around the gardens or set off on a swan-shaped boat along the lake. For a more adrenaline-fuelled adventure, you’ve got to check out Westport Adventure Park.

As you’d expect from a town with an abundance of nature on its doorstep, Westport has a strong foodie culture. To get yourself ready for the day, tuck into fresh croissants at This Must Be The Place, or try the traditional potato cake known as boxty at Christy’s Harvest.

The Gallery Wine and Tapas Bar specialises in natural wine and food, including Wild Atlantic food boards and artisan Irish cheese. If you fancy a fine dining experience, book a table at An Port Mór, a Michelin-guide restaurant whose seasonal menus make the most of Mayo’s produce. For something more traditional, book a taxi or walk the pleasant 40-minute route past Westport Harbour to Cronin’s Sheebeen. Overlooking Clew Bay, this quaint restaurant serves up pub grub and fresh seafood dishes in a characterful pub setting.

And to complete your evening, listen out for the rousing traditional tunes pouring out of the door at Matt Molloy’s pub, seven days a week. You may get lucky and find Matt leading the music sessions himself!

Just 9km outside Westport lies the holy mountain of Croagh Patrick. With a history of worship dating back over 5,000 years, this is where St Patrick chose to complete his Lenten pilgrimage of 40 days and nights.

Pilgrims and walkers alike take on the scree-covered slopes – sometimes barefoot! However, we suggest decent hiking boots, a raincoat and a stick for those steep inclines. Given that the climb is an act of penance, the trail is moderately difficult, so a good level of fitness is a must. It takes about three hours to get to the top, and once you reach the summit, you may find that the stunning views over the sparkling waters of Clew Bay are their own spiritual reward.

Back down among the foothills of Croagh Patrick is Mescan Brewery, where you can enjoy a guided tour and toast to your trek. And if you’re feeling sore from all that walking, treat yourself to a much-needed stretch at The Yoga Root studios.

Stunning sea views and mountain backdrops surround the Great Western Greenway, one of Ireland’s longest off-road cycling (and walking) trails. Starting in Westport and ending amidst the wild beauty of Achill Island, this 42km route takes in quiet bays and beaches, and passes charming towns and historic sites.

Because it largely follows an old disused railway line, gradients are gradual, making it suitable for anyone with a basic level of fitness. You can cycle it in a day, but we find it’s more fun to go slow and enjoy the ride. After all, this is the trail that was voted one of “the top three cycle trails in the world” by the New York Times.

Crossing bogs, woodlands and active farmland to bustling towns like Newport and onwards to Mulranny – a European Destination of Excellence – this Greenway more than lives up to its reputation. Make time to absorb Mulranny, a town rich in biodiversity, with its eclectic array of exotic plants and flowers, which seem to thrive across woodlands, beaches, dunes and even a salt marsh. Animal lovers should stop by the Old Irish Goat Centre to get up close with this rare breed in one of its last natural homes.

Whether the sun is bouncing off the silvery Atlantic, or a light fog is swathing the mountains in mist, the stunning island of Achill – the last stop on the Greenway – is worth the wait. The Achill Sea Salt Visitor Centre reveals how the sea salt on the island is produced, and you can even take a well-earned soak in the Achill Island Seaweed Baths.

It’s worth staying on Achill to enjoy its mellow pace of life. Island native, Gerard Mangan of Achill Isle Walks, can take you on an immersive journey around this small but mighty isle, a filming location for The Banshees of Inisherin. Fans of the film may recognise Keem Strand, a spectacular cliff-hugged bay, which is often visited by basking sharks.

Achill is not the only island accessible from Westport. Board a bus in Westport to Roonagh Pier and be whisked away on the Clare Island Ferry to Grace O’Malley’s ancient homeland, Clare Island. This exceptionally rugged terrain yields one wow moment after another with majestic sea cliffs, a Blue Flag Beach and plenty of wildlife.

Back on the mainland, experience life on a working farm amid some of the most stunning landscapes on the island at The Lost Valley of Uggool, which has been farmed by the Bourke family for over a century. This three-hour guided tour will capture your heart as Gerard Bourke recites famine hardships, poems and fascinating anecdotes before concluding with a live sheepdog demonstration.

Islands, mountains, valleys and greenways – a trip to Westport is one you’ll never forget. And your memories of Mayo will linger long after you leave…

Travel time between Dublin and Westport is around 3 hours 15 minutes. Find information on train fares and timetables at Irish Rail. Hire bikes from Westport Bike Hire and the Westport Bike Shop, including e-bikes and hybrids. Westport is a very walkable town, but there are several taxi services available and local bus links run at various times throughout the day.

For hotel comfort, book into Westport Woods Hotel and relax in a seaweed bath. Sleep amongst nature in the glamping village at Westport estate. For self-catering with a charming twist, plan a stay at Old Mike’s Cottage or Eaglewood Lodge.

There is so much to enjoy about this part of the Wild Atlantic Way that it’s worth staying at least a week. Just over an hour away is the rugged wilderness of Connemara in County Galway, Connemara National Park rewards walkers with varied trails featuring megalithic tombs, vast bogland and lush forests; while at the heart of it all lies the Victorian splendour of Kylemore Abbey…