Finding the mellow in County Cork

Cork rewards those who explore it on foot– the city is full of little surprises, such as the oasis-like Nano Nagle Place – an award-winning museum and heritage complex – so lean into the unexpected and go with the flow.

Why not see where Cork takes you on a self-guided tour that reveals an off-beat side to the city? Or join a free two-hour Historical Walking Tour with guide Kieran McCarthy, a former Lord Mayor of Cork. To see the city on two wheels, jump on the eBee Guided eBike Tour to visit Fitzgerald’s Park and Elizabeth Fort.

Cork is a hotbed of artisan producers, fresh ingredients and innovative chefs. Starting in the English Market, which has been at the heart of the city’s food since 1788, Cork Tasting Trails from Fabulous Food Tours brings visitors around the city, meeting producers and sampling local goodies. Feeling inspired? Make a date for dinner at Goldie, Café Paradiso or The Glass Curtain, or drop into the Franciscan Well Bar in a vaulted medieval building to sample award-winning local beers.

Cork can be so absorbing that it’s easy to forget it’s a port city at heart, with the second-largest natural harbour in the world. Jump on board Cork Harbour Cruises and you’ll sail up the River Lee, past the picturesque Blackrock Castle and by Fota Island, Ireland’s only wildlife park.

Cork is perfectly placed for leisurely day-trips from the city centre, including to the popular Blarney Castle and Gardens (hop on bus number 215, which departs from Cork city bus station to Blarney village).

Train travel is easy here, and just a short ride from the city is the market town of Midleton in east Cork, home to the Midleton Distillery Experience. While in town, drop into Monty’s for a toastie, have a browse in Midleton Books, and top the day off with an early bird dinner at Cush, a Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant specialising in Irish produce. If it's adventure you’re seeking, make sure to hire a bike from Cork Bike Hire and cycle the newly opened Midleton to Youghal Greenway.

Also in east Cork, and similarly easy to reach by train, is the port town of Cobh. The short journey here is breathtaking, crossing over raised tracks and bridges that skim the waters above Lough Mahon and the Slatty Water.

Famed for its colourful rows of houses and Victorian charm, Cobh is a rewarding destination with a fascinating history. Don’t miss the Titanic Experience, set in the old White Star Line Building from where the last passengers boarded the ill-fated liner. Cobh is famously scenic from the water, and the boat to Spike Island is the perfect way to see it. Once you disembark, you’ll enjoy a tour of this remarkable place, which has been a monastery, fortress and prison over its 1,300-year history.

The jewel-like seaside town of Kinsale is the gateway to the Wild Atlantic Way and is a delightful place to take it easy, relax and enjoy great seafood, coastal walks and craft shops.

“The layout of Kinsale is quite magical,” explains Sarah Hendry of Ruxx leather accessories store on Main Street. “From the tip of the horseshoe bay, you will find a fortification called Charles Fort, which then meanders down a pretty walk called the Scilly Walk towards the main part of the town. The town itself is a mix of Georgian and modern architecture overlooking the bay and marina.”

With its breezy vibes and chatty locals, Kinsale is the perfect place to unwind with leisurely alfresco lunches at Fishy Fishy, craft shopping at Weavers of Ireland, Kinsale Leather or Granny’s Bottom Drawer, and music nights at Prim’s Bookshop.

Known as the “gourmet capital of Ireland”, Kinsale is also a top destination for great food, all of which is celebrated at the annual Kinsale Gourmet Festival in October. “The county is a hub of cheese, of charcuterie, with all these amazing growers,” explains Barbara Nealon of the acclaimed Saint Francis Provisions. “It’s a beautiful, fertile place with a food culture that’s connected at the source.”

You’ll find everything from a farmer’s market to great pub lunches here, but top choices include the Michelin-starred Bastion, the buzzy The Black Pig, and the ever-popular Man Friday, overlooking Kinsale’s inner harbour.

Getting out into the surrounding landscapes is a rewarding experience. Rent an eBike from Wild Atlantic Sports and you can cycle along hedgerow-lined roads that twist and bend to offer magnificent views of the glittering Atlantic Ocean out to the Old Head peninsula – a 27km loop. Drop in for a look at the tiny Lusitania Museum and Old Head Signal Tower, before looping back past Garrettstown Beach, popular with surfers. If you have time to spare, indulge in a hearty meal at The Speckled Door, a family-run favourite with Corkconians.

Embark on a harbour cruise with Kinsale Harbour Cruises, and you’ll see 17th-century Charles Fort from the water and views of the Old Head of Kinsale. For a more bespoke experience, jump on board Kinsale Wellness on Water. Skippered by Brian Roberts, along with first mate Alfie the dog, you’ll explore the coves, islands and wildlife of the River Bandon and Kinsale Harbour, with a chance to try mackerel fishing or lobster-pot pulling.

This part of Cork is easily accessible by public transport. There are frequent trains from Dublin to Cork with a travel time of around 2 hours and 30 minutes. Trains also run from Cork city to Cobh and Midleton. Kinsale is accessible by bus 226 from Cork city, with a travel time of around 55 minutes. Cork Airport is connected to several European destinations.

The Address boasts a Green Tourism Gold Award and has a convenient location on the top of Military Hill in Cork city or opt for a stay in a 17th-century fortress with the Irish Landmark Trust. For a luxurious place to stay just outside the city, opt for Fota Island Resort, which can be accessed from the city centre by rail. Located on its own private island, it’s a perfect escape from the hustle of the city. And in Kinsale, try the Blue Haven, with a fantastic location in the centre of town.

Kinsale is the gateway to the Wild Atlantic Way, so once you’ve explored the town, set your sights on the beauty of West Cork, with its wild, wave-lashed peninsulas, seaside villages and spectacular landscapes.