A taste of Dublin

There’s a satisfyingly homespun feel to traditional Irish food. Take coddle and brown bread, bacon and cabbage, fish and chips, and the beloved ham and cheese toastie; not to mention cockles and mussels, harmonised to the tune of Dublin’s Molly Malone.

Up to now, this kind of food might have been regarded as good, old-fashioned comfort food, but it wasn’t always considered cool. Now things have changed: traditional Irish flavours are being re-imagined by ambitious chefs who are combining exacting standards, innovative techniques and high-quality ingredients to create something new.

You can try this elevated Irish food at restaurants such as The Pig’s Ear, Delahunt and Spitalfields, which is located in the historic Liberties district.

If you’re looking for traditional dishes, there is no shortage of options. Head to L. Mulligan Grocer in Stoneybatter for a new take on bacon and cabbage or great fish and chips, enjoy a roast Sunday lunch in beautiful Victorian surrounds at Ryan’s of Parkgate Street, or go old-school with an Irish stew at O’Neills – a 300-year-old bar on Suffolk Street.

There are said to be 70 million people of Irish descent around the world, but while many leave, many return to bring their expertise home. One defining aspect of Ireland’s contemporary gastronomy is the ambition and confidence of its young chefs, many of whom have travelled widely and worked with some of the best international talent before bringing those refined skills and eclectic influences home. The result? A cutting-edge food scene that’s constantly evolving and endlessly exciting.

Of course, good food is fuelled by great ingredients. Dine out in Dublin, and you’ll see that there’s a real respect for high-quality produce, from glistening Galway Bay oysters and Connemara lamb to farmhouse cheese. For a fine-dining experience, enjoy exquisite seafood at Allta na Farraige, try Forest Avenue for Michelin-starred delights or go all out at the two-starred Chapter One.

You can also enjoy delicious Irish-European flavours in more casual hotspots such as Hera in the hip Smithfield district, Mongoose in the Liberties (a go-to for Sunday lunch) or Notions, also in the Liberties, where the seasonal menu is driven by fresh local ingredients.

Picture-lined walls, Victorian stained glass, and cosy little snugs – trust us, Dublin pubs are pure magic. There’s no better place to spend a quiet afternoon with a good book and a pint of Guinness settling on the bar. The city’s traditional Irish pubs are unique. From the friendly barmen to historic interiors, each has its own personality and place in the city’s psyche, which is probably why they’re still going strong.

The Brazen Head and O’Donoghue’s are all about traditional music sessions; hundreds of rock and jazz bands have played gigs at Whelan’s; and most Irish comedians cut their teeth performing upstairs at the International Bar. Bowe’s, near The Irish Times, boasts a gorgeous wooden interior, while Grogan’s may just do the best toasted sandwich (“toastie”) in town.

Many pubs have stunning interiors, but others, such as Mulligan’s and Peter’s Pub, are simpler. These places are all about the chat, the banter, the craic. So whether it’s a quiet pint, a lively debate or a great traditional music session, we think you’ll find them all in a Dublin pub.

Uisce Beatha, Water of Life – whatever you want to call it, whiskey in Ireland is different (we add an extra ‘e’), and Dublin has produced some of the island’s best-known whiskeys. Jameson is probably the most familiar, but by the end of the 19th century, there were a host of whiskey distilleries, particularly in the Liberties area of the city.

War, economic upheaval and US Prohibition forced many distilleries to close, but today Irish whiskey is experiencing a remarkable resurgence led by a new generation of distilleries, including Teeling, Dublin Liberties Distillery and Roe & Co. Meanwhile, venues such as the Dingle Whiskey Bar, the Palace Bar and The Whiskey Reserve are placing whiskey firmly centre stage.

Guinness is Ireland’s most famous and most popular beer and is made from just four simple ingredients: water, barley, hops and yeast. Once seen as a more traditional, “older generation” drink, it’s now once again having a cultural moment, helped along by celebrity fans such as Dua Lipa, who “split the G” in O’Donoghue’s. You can learn all about it up by St James’s Gate, at the Guinness Storehouse, or try it in pubs known for their consistently good pints, such as Kehoe’s, Neary’s and The Gravediggers.

Want to try one of Ireland’s great craft beers? A good spot to check out is JW Sweetman on the Liffey, where they brew their own beers in the resident microbrewery. And with that whirlwind tour, all that’s left to say around Dublin is Sláinte!