Cycling Ireland’s northern coast

Famous for its castle (now a hotel with a resident ghost), the village of Ballygally makes a great spot to start your Causeway Coast cycle. It’s just on the edges of the Antrim Coast and Glens, an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. And it’s a little north of Belfast so you can ease yourself into the journey on quieter roads away from the busy city. Bring your own bike or hire from Belfast City Bike Tours and off you go!

You’re following the Causeway Coastal Route, which hugs the rugged coastline and takes you through charming villages such as Glenarm, Carnlough and Waterfoot. Stop and explore or push on to Cushendun (about 40km), a pretty village, in the Cornish style, which is mostly owned by the National Trust. Stroll around the streets, stop in at Mary MacBride’s pub to refuel and if time permits, pay a visit to the nearby Cushendun Caves, which featured in Game of Thrones.

You have two options to get from Cushendun to Ballycastle. Following the Causeway Coastal Route signs will take you inland and offer an easier route. But if you’re up for a challenge, the scenic Torr Head route rewards the effort.

The road is narrow, the hills are punishing but the views are spectacular. On a clear day, you can see Scotland from Torr Head, and if you have the energy, you can take in the views from Fair Head, Northern Ireland’s tallest cliff face, before continuing on to Ballycastle and a well-deserved night of rest and relaxation. Stay in the Marine Hotel right on the seafront or opt for the quiet luxury of The Salthouse, just 2km outside the town. Enjoy a drink in the House of McDonnell, a legendary traditional pub dating from the 18th century.

Follow Whitepark Road out of Ballycastle and you’ll soon come to a sign that takes you to one of the most popular spots in Northern Ireland: the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge. Swaying 30m above the waves and spanning a 20m chasm, the bridge links the mainland to tiny Carrick Island and offers spectacular views of the north Antrim coastline. This is a busy site so you’ll need to book ahead of your visit.

Game of Thrones fans may want to detour off the route to see the pretty stone harbour at Ballintoy which featured in the hit show. Otherwise, keep following the coast road past the golden crescent-shaped beach at Whitepark Bay and on to the undisputed jewel of the north coast – the Giant’s Causeway. This UNESCO World Heritage Site features over 40,000 hexagonal basalt columns tumbling down to the sea and is a must on your trip here. Pre-booking is essential as it gets busy in peak season. The visitor centre has a nice café so it’s a good spot to have some lunch and relax before tackling the rest of the day.

Once you’re back on your bike, you’ve got plenty more to look forward to. Follow the off-road greenway (part of the Causeway Coast Cycle Route – Sustrans Route 93), to the village of Bushmills, where you’ll find the Old Bushmills Distillery, the oldest licensed whiskey distillery in the world (established 1608). A tour (and maybe even a tasting) is a real treat.

From Bushmills, quiet country roads bring you to the spectacular Dunluce Castle, a picturesque ruin clinging to the cliffs and onto the popular seaside towns of Portrush and Portstewart. You’ll find plenty of restaurant and accommodation options in both but for something a little special, try dinner at Harry’s Shack, right on the glorious Portstewart Strand and stay in the quirky boutique hotel, Me & Mrs Jones, or the luxury beach house, At The Beach, which offers quiet luxury and unrivalled views of Mussenden Temple and the Donegal coastline – a preview of what’s to come...

Get ready for the first of two ferry trips to bring you around the coast and into Donegal’s rugged headlands. First up is the ferry from Magilligan Point in Northern Ireland to Greencastle in County Donegal. Your cycle from Portstewart will take you past the iconic Mussenden Temple on its clifftop perch and through the university town of Coleraine before you reach the ferry’s departure point. It takes around 15 minutes to cross the glacial fjord of Lough Foyle and debark in the pretty fishing village of Greencastle. Enjoy lunch at Kealy’s Seafood Bar where the seafood chowder is predictably good.

Now that you’re on the Inishowen Peninsula, you’ve got some decisions to make. This is one of the most beautiful parts of the island of Ireland, and you could spend days exploring its deserted beaches and ancient monuments such as the dramatic Grianán of Aileach ring fort. But if you prefer to keep on track, head south out of Greencastle and follow the R238 coast road towards Muff. Turn inland towards Gráinne’s Pass on a narrow winding road that takes you across the peninsula to the fishing village of Buncrana. The road rises steeply but the views of Lough Swilly are worth it.

After a gentle descent into Buncrana, make your way to the pier and board the ferry that will take you across Lough Swilly to Rathmullan. It takes about 40 minutes before you land on another of Donegal’s spectacular headlands, Fanad. As with Inishowen, there are many reasons to stay and explore Fanad, not least the lighthouse at its tip, which has been voted one of the most beautiful in the world. Whatever you decide, it’s time to rest up for the night. Nearby, you’ll find Rathmullan House Hotel, a gracious country house hotel set in extensive grounds and with a well-deserved reputation for great food. It’s time to relax!

Note: both the Lough Foyle and the Lough Swilly ferries are seasonal and run only during summer months.

Follow the coast road south from Rathmullan, passing through the towns of Milford and Kilmacrenan before turning off the N56 towards Glenveagh National Park. The park is located in the heart of the Derryveagh Mountains and features a stunning lakeside castle, several walking trails and a 33km looped off-road cycle trail of the whole park. Make time to fit in a tour of the castle and gardens before lunching in the Castle Tea Rooms.

One of the highlights of this part of Donegal is Errigal, the highest mountain in the Derryveagh range. It’s an iconic sight with its distinctive pyramid shape and the pink glow it emits in the light of the setting sun (thanks to its quartzite composition). You can enjoy fantastic views of this Donegal legend as you follow the R251 road to your final stop for tonight – the luxury glamping pods at the little Gaeltacht (Irish-speaking) village of Meenaleck. Just a short walk away, you’ll find Leo’s Tavern, a local pub famous for its traditional Irish music, which is the family home of Enya and Clannad.

Set out for the pretty village of Annagry and head south through the rocky, lake-strewn region of west Donegal known as the Rosses. The climbs are steep but the views and the lack of traffic on quiet country lanes make up for the effort. Stop for lunch at the Waterfront Hotel in Dungloe, which boasts stunning views of Dungloe Bay.

Leaving Dungloe, you can take Caravan Road for a direct route south to Ardara via the small village of Lettermaccaward. Or detour along the coast on two of the scenic loops that form part of the Donegal Cycle Route: the Maghery Way Loop and the Dooey Way Loop.

Your final stop for the day is the small heritage town of Ardara, famous for its woollen and tweed crafts and a recently revived passion for distilling. Pay a visit to Donegal Design Makers or Triona Donegal Tweed Centre and take a distillery tour at the Ardara Distillery. where they produce whiskey, gin and vodka inspired by Donegal’s rugged beauty and natural ingredients. Nancy’s Bar is a great option for dinner before settling in for the night in one of the town’s B&B and self-catering options.

From Ardara, follow the Donegal Cycle Route south along quiet country roads, enjoying the rolling hills of south Donegal until you come to the pretty coastal village of Inver, where the River Eaney runs into Donegal Bay. Turn left to take a detour to the magnificent Slieve League Cliffs, which are among the highest sea cliffs in Europe and well worth a visit.

From Inver, the coast road will take you right into Donegal town, famous for the 15th century Donegal Castle and the town’s picturesque location between the shores of Donegal Bay and the Bluestack Mountains. If time allows, book a tour of the bay on the Donegal Water Bus – sailing times are dependent on tides so check ahead.

Dine in the award-winning Old Castle Bar gastro pub, across the street from the castle, before retiring for the night in the town. You might even splash out on a stay in one of Donegal’s luxury hotels, Lough Eske Castle Hotel or Harvey’s Point, both of which are about a 20-minute cycle from the town.

Follow the Wild Atlantic Way south from Donegal on the R267 and treat yourself to a stop at the Donegal Craft Village, a charming craft collective where you can see the artists’ at work and pick up handmade glassworks, pottery and jewellery (talk to them about shipping your order home).

Consider a swim (or maybe even a surf lesson) at Rossnowlagh Beach, before you continue on to Ballyshannon, one of Ireland’s oldest towns and the birthplace of musician Rory Gallagher (look out for a statue of the beloved rock guitarist in the town centre).

You’re in surf country now - the seaside town of Bundoran is one of Ireland’s surfing hotspots, centred around Tullan Strand, just outside the town. Here, you’ll also find the famous Fairy Bridges, natural sea arches and blow holes that were said to have been haunted by fairies and have been drawing visitors to the town since the 1700s.

Next up is another surfing mecca – Mullaghmore in County Sligo. This dramatic peninsula jutting out into the Atlantic draws big-wave surfers to its massive swells, but the more sheltered beach is a lovely place to enjoy a kayak or paddleboard. Don’t miss the impossibly picturesque Classiebawn Castle, silhouetted against the constantly changing sky.

The Sligo coast treats you to expansive sea views against a backdrop of Ben Bulben, Sligo’s table mountain. In the midst of all this drama, you’ll find Atlantic Sheepdogs – Martin Feeney’s family has been farming sheep here for generations and it’s a real thrill to watch his highly trained sheepdogs at work.

Other highlights along the way include Streedagh Beach, an expanse of golden strand that found fame as a filming location for the TV series Normal People, and Lissadell House, a country house with strong ties to the poet William Butler Yeats, who often visited. You’ll pass Yeats’s grave at Drumcliffe Graveyard, in the looming shadow of Ben Bulben on your way to Sligo town.

Once you arrive in Sligo, you can relax – you’ve come to the end of an epic journey that has featured geological wonders, panoramic seascapes, history, literature and a chance to get close to Ireland’s culture and people. You’ve earned your rest! If you want to extend your trip, Ireland has you covered. The Wild Atlantic Way has so much more to show you, from the dramatic landscapes of Connemara to the Cliffs of Moher and the Ring of Kerry. Who says you have to go home now?