Ireland's literary trail

8th January 2010

In many ways, Ireland defines itself through its long and rich literary heritage. Ireland indeed most likely had a spoken and written vernacular culture long before other European countries, as can be seen in the amazing insular manuscripts such as the Book of Kells. From James Joyce to Samuel Beckett, there are few countries as small as this one that have produced so many world renowned writers. Here are some of the hot spots not to be missed when visiting Ireland.

Dublin and Trinity College
Being the seat of British administration for hundreds of years, it is no surprise that Dublin was to produce so many artists, writers and poets. Much of this creative output was no doubt due to the presence of Trinity College Dublin, which was founded in the 16th century by Queen Elizabeth I and whose doors witnessed the likes of Bram Stoker (author of the well known Dracula novel), George Bernard Shaw and Samuel Beckett.

The Book of Kells
Where better to begin an Irish literary odyssey than with one of its points of origin? The world famous Book of Kells was created in the 9th century by Ionian monks and their exquisite artistry of lettering and design interlacing still amazes today. Visitors can also take in the stunning 18th century Long Room Library upstairs which houses ireland's oldest harp, known as the 'Brian Boru Harp'.

The Dublin Writer's Museum
This Restored Georgian Mansion on Parnell Square houses letters, books, portraits and other personal items belonging to great Irish Writers from the past three hundred years. The museum is small, intimate and well worth a visit if you are in the area. It is also a convenient spot for visiting the nearby James Joyce Centre on North Great Frederick Street in Dublin's north side city centre.

For more information, go to www.writersmuseum.com.

James Joyce's Martello Tower, Sandycove
This Tower was one of a series of Martello towers built to withstand an invasion by Napoleon and now holds a museum devoted to the life and works of James Joyce, who made the tower the setting for the first chapter of his masterpiece, Ulysses. Visitors can also take in the picturesque Dun Laoghaire Harbour and the beautiful coastal scenery around it.

For more information, go to www.dun-laoghaire.com

St. Anne's Church, Dawson Street
It was in this tiny neo-gothic church that Abraham (Bram) Stoker married his love Florence Balcombe, who, incidentally was the one-time girlfriend of none other than Oscar Wilde.

Dublin's Literary Pub Crawl
Few places are as immersed in pub culture as Dublin and this is largely due to its pubs which have been the haunts of many a literary giant. Long-standing ale houses such as Davy Byrnes in Duke Street, McDaids in Harry Street and Grogans on Clarendon Street as well as Mulligans bar in Poolbeg Street and the Palace Bar have remained deliberately unchanged and serve as bastions of the art of conversation and literary wit. Both Davy Byrnes and Mulligans were in fact frequented by the great James Joyce and alluded to in his Dublin Epic Ulysses. Be warned though, this cultural attraction is not for the weak of constitution and those embarking on such a tour of Dublin's literary pubs would be well advised to pace themselves!

For more information, go to www.dublinpubcrawl.com

Sligo and Yeats' Country
The impact of Sligo on Irish literature in general cannot be overestimated. Home of dramatist and Nobel Laureate W.B Yeats and his brother Jack B. Yeats, the wild and romantic landscape of Connemara and the Atlantic coast gave birth to a new emerging literary personality of the Irish Literary Revival or Celtic Twilight. The landscape was the antithesis to British colonisation – wild, free, innocent and timeless and it then became synonymous with the emerging image of 'Ireland'.

Coole Park
Coole Park House and estate was owned by Lady Augusta Gregory who was a towering figure in the Arts, not only through her generous patronage of emerging artists, writers and poets, but also in her role as co-founder (along with W.B Yeats and Edward Martyn) of the Abbey Theatre. Lady Gregory was at the very centre of the literary revival and had many artists to stay with her at Coole Park, all of whom carved their names in a large beech tree in the gardens now known as the 'Autograph Tree'. Visitors to Coole Park can follow two trails: "The Family Trail" is an easy 1.75 km walk, taking you past the deer pen, the site of the house and into the walled garden to see the Autograph Tree and the 4.5 km "Seven Woods Trail" which connects the different woods made famous in poetry by W.B. Yeats. You can also take in a visit to Yeats' grave which is inscribed with his famed enigmatic epitaph: 'Cast a cold eye/ on life and death/ horsemen pass by'.

For more information, go to www.coolepark.ie.

Galway and the Aran Islands
These weather-beaten islands jut out into the Atlantic with nothing but America facing them and are the perfect destination to experience Irish literary culture at its most rugged. Indeed, the Irish language is still spoken as a native tongue and nearly every inhabitant is bi-lingual in both Irish and English. It was this landscape that inspired John Millington Synge's famous Playboy of The Western World (which, incidentally caused riots on opening night in the newly opened Abbey Theatre!) and Riders to The Sea. For those who are not afraid of a bumpy ride, visitors can reach the islands via regular ferries departing from the Ros a' Mhil terminal in Galway Bay.

For more information, go to www.aranislandferries.com.

The Nora Barnacle House Museum, Galway
Located near St. Collegiate Church, this museum is actually the smallest museum in Ireland and was once the home of Nora Barnacle, James Joyce's wife and life-long inspiration. Built in the 1800's, this little house is in fact the smallest one on the street and it was in the tinier still kitchen that Joyce first met his mother-in-law, Annie Barnacle, in 1909.

Northern Ireland

Seamus Heaney Tours, South Derry
It is a rare thing to be able to tour the homeland of a living literary legend. Nobel Laureate Seamus Heaney's native bogland landscape offers a literary hotspot with a difference. Visitors can take a special, bespoke tour of Heaney Country where some of his finest poetry was produced.

For more information, go to www.seamusheaney.org

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