Monday, March 24, 2008

Value for money

This week CONOR POPE looks at chocolate spreads

Green & Blacks €4.95 for 400g, €12.37 per kg

Highs Is there any kind of chocolate spin-off that Green & Blacks are not dabbling in? As you might expect from this upmarket organic product, this spread is perfectly pleasant. Densely textured with a rich chocolatey flavour.

Lows It's not as nutty as some of its rivals and its thick-set nature makes it slightly more tricky to spread. These lows are, of course, almost entirely inconsequential unlike the price which is very, er, consequential. It is too dear and while it might be okay for a special occasion, we're not sure we could justify spending this kind of cash on an every day spread, although perhaps chocolate spread shouldn't be an everyday kind of thing.

Verdict Good quality, bad price

Star Rating ***

Nutella €2.18 for 400g 

€5.45 per kg

Highs This is unquestionably the market leader and the product which introduced most Irish people to the concept of chocolate spreads nearly three decades ago. It is instantly recognisable, widely available and tastes absolutely grand - a bit like Ferrero Rocher in a jar. It isn't excessively sweet and has a strong hazelnut flavour which mingles pleasant with the hint of vanilla.

Lows "Over 50 hazelnuts, a glass of skimmed milk and a little cocoa" is what the manufacturer tells us has gone into every jar, adding that it can be used as "part of a balanced breakfast". While that may well be the case, we're still not convinced that this - or indeed any chocolate spread - could actually be considered really good for you.

Verdict Pleasingly familiar

Star Rating ****

Nusica Duo 98c for 400g, €2.45 per kg

Highs This is very, very cheap and very, very stripey and its appearance might appeal to children.

Lows Its ingredient list may not, however, be as appealing to their parents. Of particular concern, for Pricewatch at any rate, was the minuscule amount of hazelnuts - a miserly one per cent - and the presence of partially hydrogenated fats. It also tasted pretty horrible - far too sweet with hardly any nutty (or indeed chocolatey) flavours discernible. The alternating brown and white stripes may have seemed like a good idea to someone, but to us it looked like the grim chocolate spread had been interlaced with grimmer lard (although we are certain that wasn't the case).

Verdict Cheap and nasty

Star Rating: *

Nutkao Fantasia de Cacao, €2.09 for 400g, €5.23 per kg

Highs This comes from Italy, where chocolate spreads are commonly found on the breakfast table, and while it is a little on the sweet side, it does taste of chocolate and has a readily discernible hazelnut flavour. Keenly priced and not a bad alternative to the market leader.

Lows Like the market leader, it is perhaps a little too thick-set and seemed overly keen to attach itself to the roof of our mouth. We also had to question whether it was really a "fantasy of cocoa" as the makers promised (although that might depend on how it is used). The label's assertion that it was "to eat with bread, creps (sic), ice cream or filling cakes snacks, croissants will do the happily of children and adults" left us bemused.

Verdict Fine

Star Rating ***

Traidcraft Chocolate Hazelnut, €4.99 for 400g, €12.48 per kg

Highs This is creamy and rich and has a pleasantly complex chocolatiness to it. While some of the other brands use a little too much vanilla and a little too much sugar, the primary flavours are chocolate and hazelnut. It also comes with added feelgood factor - it is a certified fair trade product - and it is comforting to note as you smear it on your toast that farmers in the developing world who were involved in its production weren't ripped off.

Lows Goodwill comes at a cost and this is the most expensive option we tried - a low no matter which way you look at it. Its high price and its comparative difficulty to source may not make it ideal for everyday use.

Verdict: Feelgood and tastes good

Star Rating:****

© 2008 The Irish Times

This article appears in the print edition of the Irish Times