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Find your ancestorsReady, steady, cook Derry Clarke of l'Écrivain restaurant in Dublin was recently presented with a mystery bag of ingredients, chosen by members of the Irish Food Writers' Guild.
Thankfully the bag contained a selection of top-class Irish produce, nominated by members of the guild for their annual awards. Patrick Moran received a prize for his Kerry mountain lamb, and this was served as roast loin with slow braised shoulder, polenta and aubergine caviar. Superquinn's dry-aged rib-eye of beef was also a winner, and was served with Lyonaise potatoes and Bordelaise jus. Lavistown cheese, created by Olivia Goodwillie, was teamed with Waldorf salad, baby leaves and apple and port jelly. Perhaps the most innovative dish was the poached pear in puff pastry, with candied pecans, Wicklow blue cheese sorbet and caramel sauce, made with the Hempenstall family's farmhouse cheese.
Clucking cooking
Classes at the Ballymaloe Cookery School are booked out almost as soon as they are announced, so there is a waiting list for "Classic Techniques" with Darina Allen (April 9-11th), the latest new addition to the schedule of classes. This two-and-a-half day course (€525) was prompted by customer demand - Allen is always on the lookout for feedback from her clients. It will most likely be repeated, so keep an eye on www.cookingisfun.ie for additional dates. In the meantime, "How to keep a few chickens in the garden" (April 19th, €175) is a one-day course that is always popular. "It's not difficult," Allen promises, and the rewards are great. You don't need a big garden - Jane Powers, gardening correspondent of The Irish Times, keeps six hens in her city garden, and her happy brood produce enough eggs to keep her household supplied.
© 2008 The Irish Times
This article appears in the print edition of the Irish Times


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