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Sat 07 Jul 2007Café Hans, CashelIf there's one thing even odder than the dearth of good cooking in provincial Irish restaurants, it's the virtual impossibility of finding somewhere decent outside central Dublin or Cork that opens for lunch.I've no doubt that the restaurateurs have done their homework, so it would appear that a proper lunch - as in a couple of courses and maybe a glass or two of wine and a complete absence of panini - is only in demand among those feckless sophisticates who infest the capital.